'78 Mustang Extreme Make over part Deux (Nov. 24 2022 UPDATE )

[Greg Birky]

Nice fab work throughout, Brian!!!  This is going to be a killer late model!!!

[Brian Conn]

   Thanks Greg!   Your input is appreciated

   
  Finished up the rear axle sans shocks and rear leaf shackles...they will be attached once the rear axle is mounted with the correct wheelbase.  Building one section at a time is like a model with in a model...as long as it all goes together and looks decent at a few feet is all that really matters.


  Steam roller tires from the AMT/ERTL  1965 Ford Fairlane Modified Stocker kit ....they look even big with this late model build.  After market wheels/hubs and quick change. After market quick change yoke "U" joint.     Scratch built Chrysler style multi leaf (L) and mono leaf (R) springs, front leaf spring mounts, rear axle damper,steel braided brake lines w/ A/N fittings on the brake caliper.

EDIT:  Removed the elastic bead cord and replaced both sides with some braided wire (common ground) from an USB cord....the braided wire from the USB cord is more true to scale for brake line than the elastic bead cord.

   

[Brian Conn]

  Got it up on all fours ...again


  Replaced the braided steel brake lines that where on there (elastic bracelet) with some smaller dia. ones (USB cord common ground) ....the larger dia. lines looked like a garden hose attached to the brake calipers, these look a whole lot more plausible.

....Moved on to body work


  Decided to re work the front grill /cowl area to match that of the AMT/ERTL '77 Mustang II.  I want to re-do the hood and decided that this would be a good time to make this part of the body right.  Also re-shaped the wheel well flares to be 4 scale inches above the fender line and re did what will be the Black plastic that is in front of and slightly above the tires.


  I will be using the AMT/ERTL '77 Mustang II hood as a template.  With this, I will be able to get the correct shapes and contours to this area of the cowl/grill.

   

   

[Greg Birky]

WOW, this don't even look like the same car anymore!!!  Up on 4 wheels, details looking great, looks like a new body...heck, looks like a totally different new car!!!  Nice job so far, Brian!!! 

[Bob P.]

Looking good Brian, this is coming along nicely.

Bob

[Brian Conn]

  Changed the front bumper.....


    I never was quite satisfied with the plastic bumper cover look with this build originally.....wanted to go with a chrome bumper that would be period correct and fit.  I took the dimensions and measurements off of the Futurattractions Ford Fairmont Futura that I got and ground and sanded the Mustang II's front bumper which was just a solid piece of resin anyway.  The Fairmonts bumper was smaller and light weight  that plausibly would have been used during this period.  I still have a little bit more detail to add to the bumper before shooting primer.

  The head light area was still at the original 1:32 scale with which the more detail work that I did on the front grill/cowl, it started to stand out more..... so I made some covers to make them look more correct to the 1:25 scale that it represents.           

[Brian Conn]

  The engine is DONE......It took about as long to re work the original into its present configuration as it did to freshen up the real thing!

  FROM THIS...... 


TO THIS.....


  Tranny stayed the same, didn't have to touch it....original block, heads, valve covers, air cleaner cover, oil breathers, headers, water pump and wired distributor. Replaced the original carb and intake with an after market Holley 4150 series carb and a resin cast medium rise intake manifold.  Scratch built an air filter element and base.  Re routed the original solder headers bringing the Left side header now up and over the transmission case due to clearance issues with the interior.  Added after market header collectors.  Parts box fan and pulleys.  Added steel braided hoses for the radiator and fuel lines to and from the fuel pump to carb.
  The biggest change was changing this from a wet sump to a 2 stage dry sump engine.  Resin cast dry sump pan, 2 stage pump and Gilmer drive belt w/pulleys.  Scratch built A/N fittings.  Still need to get everything plumbed.
   

   

[Brian Conn]

  Added some more dimension to the bumper with the Evergreen strip....will get everything smoothed out and ready for some chrome.
  Did what was popular back then and drilled some holes in the bumper....lightens it up and less restrictive air flow to the radiator.

[Brian Conn]

  After what seems like forever , I finally finished the engine bay and dry sump system.  All that is left is mounting the coil ,which will end up on the fire wall somewhere.

[Greg Birky]

Looking real sweet, Brian!  Reminds me of this one of Kenny Schrader!
Hosted on Fotki
Hosted on Fotki

[Brian Conn]

Looking real sweet, Brian!  Reminds me of this one of Kenny Schrader!
Hosted on Fotki

You have absolutely nailed the look that I am after with the rear deck spoiler and side boards/rudders ....similar to the previously done build/version from '08 only this time with more clear plastic to represent the Lexan.  That picture that you posted is the first time ever that I saw that "Kenny car" ...another one saved to the hard drive,thanks

This thing gonna start and run when you're done? A lot of "working" detail in this one!

If that engine fires up and runs, then perhaps I should lay off of the New Years Eggnog
  This is my very first build utilizing a dry sump system.....I wanted to go that route to lower the engine and create the much needed space under the hood.  I figured I go all in before I did the research on what entails a dry sump system.....needless to say I put the cart before the horse.  Once the engine was placed , the 2 stage pump and Gilmer drive belt assemblies are all but obscured.  I did manage to find just enough room to place the 2 stage oil filter set up between the Left side of the engine and back side of the fan shroud.
  There was some discussion a while back reference the duct work ahead of the radiator on build that Lefturns75 is doing.  What I have come to find out is that the air box between the radiator and front grill would have been a three sided box with the bottom open to allow dirt and mud to fall back to the racing surface, yet allow air to be drawn up from under the front of the car.  I am still trying to hunt down some pictures of an East coast dirt modified of that era that would, perhaps, better demonstrate this.
   

[Brian Conn]

.....Its been nearly 3 years since I have done anything with this build.  Since that time, I have learned some more building techniques and have completed 2 builds.  I went back thru this thread a deleted text and pictures that are no longer relevant to this build to create a fresh starting point where I can begin to finish this build.
  Judging by the traffic in my Fotki acct. reference this particular build, there is still plenty of interest or at least interest in viewing the pictures by others of this build which was a deciding factor to move it off of the back burner and complete it. 

  New for 2022 updates soon........ 

[Tom Birky]

Gitr done! Time to drop the checkers on it Brian!

Tom

[Brian Conn]

  A lot has happened since December 29th 2019, approximately the date that I last did anything with this build.  I was able to pick up, recently, where I had left off in regards to re working the body.  One thing that I have decided to do with this build that I would never have attempted 2 years ago is some subtle weathering.  I will be shooting the completed chassis with Testors Dulcote to knock down the shine and sparkle that is still present and make it more realistic looking.

   
  Completely redid the grill facia using Evergreen strips.  I'm not quite done with the grill as there are still some apparent areas that still need some attention.  Used the AMT/ERTL '77 Mustang II's grill as reference.

   
  Built a new hood using styrene sheet and strips. Used the AMT/ERTL '77 Mustang II's hood as a template to make a longer hood for this build.  Scale 3" over the fender line bubbled hood with a 4" scale hood scoop.
  There are still some high spots on the fender tops as well as the hood that need smoothed out.  I screwed up on my measurements for the hood scoop template and made a hole for the air cleaner that it doesn't need, so I will fill it in as the top of the air cleaner sits below the hood scoop.  I had to make a hood scoop due to clearance issues with the air cleaner, oil breathers ,distributor cap and radiator.