Short Track Models
Construction Topics => Fab shop-under construction pics => Topic started by: MarkJ on January 01, 2018, 12:49:36 PM
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(https://s6.postimg.cc/mah0h3975/63chevwipresomo6.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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So , your at it again! Whatcha gonna build this time?
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So , your at it again! Whatcha gonna build this time?
As usual, Tom. It will be revealed at the end. But you guys who study the history of the sport will probably figure it out way before the end. There is only about 5 choices.
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Hmmmmmmm.............................................. :)
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The bumpers have 1963 in raised numbers on them and the plating has bubbles in it so I'm going to have to alcladII them.
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I used my scribing tool to help make the tunnel for the fuel inlet. holds it in place till the glue drys.
(https://s6.postimg.org/4iivp8781/63junwipbachpl3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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I need a 427 for this build so I acquired a 396 from this kit. If I ever build this kit I will glue the hood shut and use the 409 from the 63 kit so I will have something to hook the exhausts to.
(https://s6.postimg.org/dwtemxcup/63junwipsreexpi1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Started removing the mufflers from the chassis. This will just be a shelfer but I cant stand to leave the mufflers on a nascar build. In fact, all I have ever built are shelfers.
(https://s6.postimg.org/y46uf7n6p/63junwipsreexpi2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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got the tunnel for the fuel inlet pipe done.
(https://s6.postimg.org/tiaq6vh35/63junwipsreexpi5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Great start, I'll keep an eye on this build. Maybe someone will identify the car prior to being completed.
Bob
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Thanks, Bob. I'm going to try to add just a little bit of detail to this really basic molded frame.
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Great work so far !!
If i had a choice, i´d like to see a black/gold Smokey Yunnik car with the lucky #13, driven by Johnny Rutherford.
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Thanks, Michael. Stay tuned. You never know. Here are some more frame wips.
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Mark,
i think, with this rear axle construction it will be not an early GN car, i´m looking foward for the finished one...
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Mark,
i think, with this rear axle construction it will be not an early GN car, i´m looking foward for the finished one...
Michael, Thank you for your interest in the build. I'm not sure what your saying but I am using reference pictures from a 1963 Chevy that was driven in 1963. The mods I'm doing for the model aren't perfectly to scale because I retained the molded in rear axle which is way to thick but the length of the rear suspension truck arms is correct in scale to the real car. This car was way before its time in many things.
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Oops, i´m sorry Mark!! I´m such a fool!!
I was sure they drove leafspring-rearaxles till end of the 60´s.
Hey, maybe there is still a chance to see a black and gold car..... ;D ;D
And in case it wouldn´t, it does not matter. I like all of your great builds!
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Oops, i´m sorry Mark!! I´m such a fool!!
I was sure they drove leafspring-rearaxles till end of the 60´s.
Hey, maybe there is still a chance to see a black and gold car..... ;D ;D
And in case it wouldn´t, it does not matter. I like all of your great builds!
Stay tuned, Michael. That's whats cool about building these cars. You find out new stuff you never knew or had forgotten. Its all very interesting. Thanks again for your interest in the build.
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Oh, so that's how you mount the long truck arms to this X chassis. I know Ray Fox had them on Juniors car. Maybe Smokey, too!
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This is really looking good Mark. Fab work is awesome my friend!!
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This is really looking good Mark. Fab work is awesome my friend!!
Thanks, Gary. I didn't plan on getting this ridiculous with the mods but as I went along I kept doing more and more than I originally planned to do. Now I'm wondering if I can get it finished.
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LOL...I hear you on the "snowball effect". It can be a ball buster at times. But...I"m pretty sure you'll get it finished. Looking forward to the next update.....
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LOL...I hear you on the "snowball effect". It can be a ball buster at times. But...I"m pretty sure you'll get it finished. Looking forward to the next update.....
Thanks, Gary. I've been working on the lower part of the headers trying to get them to mate to the upper ones and end up where they should, so the exhaust pipes can hook up to them properly. You have to do it like the real car because there is no way to attach the entire upper and lower headers to the engine, and then install the engine in the car. Not a fun process at all. At least I found some glue that will bond solder to plastic. When I get the headers completed, I will coat them in white glue first, because paint will not bond to the solder. I can't attach the upper and lower control arms to the frame, until the engine and exhaust are done. I need to make sure there are no fit issues, between the lower control arms, and the headers. Its going to be a real tight fit.
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Man Mark...I can relate to the NO ROOM situation with the headers. I've built quite a few headers with solder and just shot them with primer( Duplicolor and Alclad) first...then the color after. I've never had a problem with the paint not adhering to the solder..I also wipe the solder headers with Acetone to clean them before priming. I think 99% Isopropyl rubbing alcohol would clean them also. Maybe try that and you won't have to mess with the white glue...just a thought.
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Ok , Gary. That's sounds great. I just assumed primer would not stick because of the way solder feels to the touch. Very slippery to handle. Here is what I have so far. The header halves are just close to each other but not attached yet. They seem like they will fit ok when installed. I will sand the collector tubes down some more to make them less thick and more thin walled. I also want to elongate the left lower header collector.
(https://s6.postimg.org/ye7z2yvrl/63junwipsmacopi1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Man Mark...you're doing a great job. By the tight bends you have I can see that there isn't room for a gnat to move in there..
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This build is coming along nicely. I can tell you have a lot of time in this already. Those headers and dumps look great.
I will keep an eye on your progress.
Bob
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Thanks, Gary and Bob. It took a while to figure out how to get those 90 degree bends. I had to make many cuts with a saw on what would be the inside of the bend. I then heated the tube with a candle to make the bend. If you don't make the cuts the bend just collapses flat when you bend the tube even if it is heated. I then opened the bend back up a little put glue in the cuts and rebended the tube and held it tight till the glue could dry making the bend permanent and also erasing the cuts that were made. Of course the tube has to be about 4 inches long when your doing this process and then when its finished the excess tubing is cut off. I should have taken pictures while I was doing this but didn't.
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really nice fab work,and the headers are looking super!
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Hey Mark, I have different sizes of scrap wire laying around and I usually find one that's fairly snug and just ram in down into the styrene tube. I then can heat and make bends that sometimes must be sharp and hold it in place until it cools. Afterwards (sometimes have to grip with some pliers), I yank out the wire leaving me with a good tight bend that didn't collapse because of the wire inside). Cutting those kerfs like you did certainly makes sense though and there might be a time that I will have to try that method!
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Thanks, Pat and David. David I always use your wire inside the tube method when I do roll cages and such. I tried to use the method on these dumps but the tube was so big that once the bend was achieved I could not remove the wire from inside the tube and the bend still would not work because the inside of the bend had too much material and basically had no place to go. That's when I figured that I needed to remove material from the inside of the bend and the cuts were the way to do it. I wish I had taken pictures of the process while I was doing it. Thankfully I don't think I will have to be bending tubes this size much more in the future.
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Getting close to the end on wrapping up the frame. Then I can move on to the interior.
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This kit does not come with a firewall so I had to come up with something.
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Fantastic fab work!!!
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Thanks, Ed. I really appreciate the feedback. I needed to make the snorkel that attaches the air cleaner to the firewall. I took an overhead picture of the engine in the model and made it into a 1/25 scale photo. I could then use that photo to free hand an image of the snorkel from overhead. I cut out the image and place it on a piece of masking tape and traced around it to make a pattern for the snorkel . I then put the masking tape pattern on some styrene sheet and traced copies of the pattern on the sheet. As it turns out I only needed 4 copies of the pattern . I cut them out glued them together and then shaped the snorkel with my sanding stick . I added some more styrene to duplicate the rubber shroud that connects the snorkel to the firewall and also added a strip to the front of the snorkel to make it look more like the real one. Below is the process.
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The engine did not come with any brackets for the alternator. It was just sitting out in space with nothing to hold it so I made some brackets. I had to make the cooling fan too.
(https://s6.postimg.org/spp9sh1xt/63junwipsmaalbr1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Looking forward to seeing the finish product, I learn so much from what you guys post, very detailed
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Thanks, Mark. I just keep thinking ..... well that wouldn't be right if I left that off........ and I keep adding more stuff. I don't think it will ever get finished.
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Love watching your work in progress Mark. I've just seen about 2 years of work flash before my eyes at the rate I build.
tb :D
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Howdy Supertex! Just found this and see you are at it again. Read through the whole thread and will continue to watch you do your magic. After seeing your suspension mods it made me think of a car that was sorta connected to chickens. Now I have no idea which one you are building but that was my first thought. You sure are putting a lot of work in this for a "Shelfer" but I also know how that goes. I sometimes wonder why you fab stuff you can rob from a kit and then I have to give myself the face-palm. Your scratch-bashed stuff usually looks better than the kit parts so I understand. You keep hack' n away and I will keep watching. This will be a winner, you have a good track record.
Lefty
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I am digging that air intake Mark! That's one of those that reminds me of so much of my own basic scratch-building technique- "Glue a bunch of styrene together and then start removing everything that doesn't look like it should be there." :D Sometimes you scratch build a piece inside-out and sometimes outside-in, and you are doing ALL of the techniques on this one. Really nice work Mark!
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Thanks, Tom, George and David. I really appreciate the feedback. Glad to see you found your way over here George. This is an awesome sight with excellent builders.
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The kit doesn't come with a radiator or fan shroud so I had to make them.
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Cool radiator Mark!! I've made some before but those ribs you added really make a big difference. I might just be "taking that tip home with me" in the future brother!
Thanks, David. I really appreciate the feedback.
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Man Supertex, you're giving me heartburn. If I made all the stuff you do, my hands would cramp and one of my eyeballs would pop right outta my head. The radiator and shroud was great but scratching a steering box is just killer. I would cheat and dig through the parts bins until I found something. I can tell you enjoy what you do-------it shows in your work. And once again, this kind of stuff is why I call you "Supertex". Keep Glooin' I'm still a Watchin'.
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On a scale of 1 to 10, there's a few guys that are tens, a few closer to one. I sorted of put myself in the middle somewhere. Then I see what this guys does and man, I'm a heck of a lot closer to one than I thought!! This stuff is fantastic! Looks like it's 1/8 th scale! Keep on glueing Mark! Can't wait to see the next pictures in this tutorial!
Rett
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Thanks George, David, and Rett. I'm glad you could figure out that it was a steering box. Its kinda hard to recognize it as such. I still have tie rods, pitman arms, idler arm, oil cooler , oil filter mount , battery, steering shaft, brake master cylinder, and wiper motor to go. Then the chassis should be complete and I can move on to the interior.
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After I have mashed my fingers on the real thing a dozen or more times I can tell its a steering box in almost any scale. Well, maybe not 1/43, my eyes are not that good any more. 99.9% of the time your scratch-bashed parts look better than kit stuff. You just keep cutting and gluing, I know what it is. This stuff is Super, Tex.
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Mark...your doing your excellent fab work and I'm really enjoying watching you do it. Great work . I'm looking forward to the next installment....
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Thanks, George and Gary. Getting the suspension together is kinda challenging. I have no pictures of a 63 nascar chevy front suspension from underneath the car, so I'm kinda guessing at it. There will be something there, but probably not very accurate.
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Nice work so far mark. I've been watching and learning on this one from the start. Keep it up.
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Thanks, Tony. I really appreciate the feedback.
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Whew! I'm glad this is "just a shelfie" build! Why do my "best" efforts not quite equal your "shelfie" Mark? ::) ;D
Cmon , David. I have seen your work and I know that is not true. If I had bought the revell kit I wouldn't be doing any of this stuff. If you look at the rear axle and the drive shaft you know its a shelfie.
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I think it can be said that you have successfully polished a turd. You have taken a crappy kit and transformed it into a jewel. Shucks, I bet you could walk out in the field on a hot day and kick a fresh turd and end up with a clean shoe. Since you have the skills to make all this stuff, I say use those skills. You do and do it well. I guess you know that I will EXPECT to see this sort of stuff on all your future builds. Scratch on, Supertex, Scratch on.
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I think it can be said that you have successfully polished a turd. You have taken a crappy kit and transformed it into a jewel. Shucks, I bet you could walk out in the field on a hot day and kick a fresh turd and end up with a clean shoe. Since you have the skills to make all this stuff, I say use those skills. You do and do it well. I guess you know that I will EXPECT to see this sort of stuff on all your future builds. Scratch on, Supertex, Scratch on.
I'm all in with what LT75 said Mark.... you are really doing a GREAT job on this one. You're hitting the mark(no pun intended) on how to use shapes and material to make something look exactly like a 1/1 subject. It sure is fun to watch.
LOLOLOL....Hey LT75...man..it's been years since I've ran out into a field and kicked a fresh cow pie! Last time I tried that I was about 12 and at my Great Grandfathers ranch( Gerber, Northern Ca).. Ran out in the field(about 5 acres) were there was only one tree...in the middle of course. I didn't see Boss( Gramps' BULL...with big horns) hanging out way over by the barn. He saw me and headed in my direction pretty darn fast...cutting me off from the ranch house. I headed for the tree and got there and climbed that thing pretty damn fast...I'll tell ya. He had me tree'd for at least 3 hrs. I saw my brother by the fence and was screaming at him to get help...all he did was laugh!! LOL Thanks for sparking a great memory there LT75...
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Thanks guys. George as far as scratching every build from now on, I guess it depends on the kit. When I bought this kit, at a model car show, it was sealed so I did not realize how basic it was. I will try to buy kits in the future that aren't like this one. I know what you mean about bulls Gary. We stayed in a bed and breakfast cabin once in Burton,Texas (it was more just bed than breakfast) and woke up to a herd of cows and bulls surrounding the little house we were staying in. Luckily they spent most of their time down by the stock pond about a quarter mile away from the house. We had gotten there the night before, and did not see any cow patties, but in the daylight there were plenty of them you had to dodge.
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I grew up on a farm in southwest Wisconsin, stepped in a few for sure. These stories cracked me up. Got thrown off a horse when I was around 11 - 12 yrs old. Landed on my keister right smack dead center in a big one! I still remember my grandpa laughing once he knew I wasn't hurt!
Rett
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Man Mark....being in a little shack out in the middle of a herd of Cows/Bulls isn't a very cool bed and breakfast thing for me. But...if one is a Cowboy..then he might be right at home waking up to that GREAT HOME GROWN smell and then eating breakfast. Then ya had to dodge all that COW art in the yard. I'll bet you will never forget that Bed/Breakfast spot..eh?
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Man Mark....being in a little shack out in the middle of a herd of Cows/Bulls isn't a very cool bed and breakfast thing for me. But...if one is a Cowboy..then he might be right at home waking up to that GREAT HOME GROWN smell and then eating breakfast. Then ya had to dodge all that COW art in the yard. I'll bet you will never forget that Bed/Breakfast spot..eh?
Gary, that town is right in the heart of one of the best antique areas in the country, and my wife loves antiques. That's how we ended up there. Luckily I lost my sense of smell back in 1992, so the smell was no issue for me, and I don't remember my wife complaining about it too much either. Believe it or not, we had a lot of fun there, and stayed there many times.
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Gary, that town is right in the heart of one of the best antique areas in the country, and my wife loves antiques. That's how we ended up there. Luckily I lost my sense of smell back in 1992, so the smell was no issue for me, and I don't remember my wife complaining about it too much either. Believe it or not, we had a lot of fun there, and stayed there many times.
Now that sounds pretty cool. Actually...to be honest...I grew up with that cow country smell. It really don't bother me to much. It does get strong in the summer and you can tell your getting pretty close to the stock yards or Dairy Farms. This was back in the 50s-60s in N. California. It gets up to 115 degress in the shade in Redding. But...I'll bet it's about the same in the flat part of Texas too. Now...I live up here in Washington and there are a few dairy farms left but...no where close to me.
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Mark - We lived in Houston for a few years and then 14 years later, I was transferred back from California to Dallas for several years. I think I might know that place, does a tree named Sophie ring any bells? We never stayed there but we had a few friends who did and they always spoke highly of it.
David, I don't think there is a tree named Sophie on the property, but there might be and I'm just not aware of it. the place is called "Round Top Cottages". There are two cabins on the property, and we always stayed in the one called "Cedar Tops Cottage". Even though the place is in Burton, they call it "Round Top Cottages" because most of the antiquing action is in the town of Round Top which is close by. Ever since we got our dog about six years ago we haven't been able to go back because they don't allow dogs. I can't go anywhere without my dog. That's why we purchased a travel trailer right after I retired. RV parks are more liberal about dogs.
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Gary, that town is right in the heart of one of the best antique areas in the country, and my wife loves antiques. That's how we ended up there. Luckily I lost my sense of smell back in 1992, so the smell was no issue for me, and I don't remember my wife complaining about it too much either. Believe it or not, we had a lot of fun there, and stayed there many times.
Now that sounds pretty cool. Actually...to be honest...I grew up with that cow country smell. It really don't bother me to much. It does get strong in the summer and you can tell your getting pretty close to the stock yards or Dairy Farms. This was back in the 50s-60s in N. California. It gets up to 115 degress in the shade in Redding. But...I'll bet it's about the same in the flat part of Texas too. Now...I live up here in Washington and there are a few dairy farms left but...no where close to me.
Gary, Actually it doesn't usually get that hot anywhere in Texas, just usually a little over 100 at most. The thing that kills you here is the humidity. 90's here with our humidity can feel like 115 easy.
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Started on the battery.
(https://s6.postimg.org/w7yigxtv5/63junwipsoicofi1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Did some more work on the oil cooler.
(https://s6.postimg.org/rytser3gh/63junwipsoicofi2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/71xka3d5d/63junwipsoicofi3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/c0l2om1ip/63junwipsoicofi4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/t13yxa6u9/63junwipsoicofi5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/cdcgus4cx/63junwipsoicofi6.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Dannnnng Mark...that battery is flat killer! So is the rest of it but that battery...is over the top
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Thanks guys for the kind words. David, That's one thing I don't want to get into, casting. I haven't ever heard of Still Water Ranch but I'm sure its probably awesome.
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I think I'm through with putting the frame together, so now I can start on the interior.
(https://s6.postimg.org/6jys6yo1d/63juniorwipsfiwimo1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/yk2vr8rhp/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/s6dsnzew1/63juniorwipsfiwimo2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/ozj94d9vl/63juniorwipsfiwimo4.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/r43m5gbi5/)
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Great work here Mark...
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I will gamble you are the only modeler that spent time scratch building a wiper motor for a stock car. I don't know about each and every one but I know for sure one Impala that the wiper motor was in. The driver mentioned it in an interview-----he also said----"If you aint Winnin', you aint cheating enough". Supertex, I'm gonna flip right out if you wire that to a switch and it works.
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Mark, it's a straight up pleasure to watch your work. You have essentially taken a promo and turned it into a skill-level 3++. The Lindberg Dyno Don '61 impala has that same exact intake extension but I'm not sure your's doesn't look better! Awesome at every level.
John
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I will gamble you are the only modeler that spent time scratch building a wiper motor for a stock car. I don't know about each and every one but I know for sure one Impala that the wiper motor was in. The driver mentioned it in an interview-----he also said----"If you aint Winnin', you aint cheating enough". Supertex, I'm gonna flip right out if you wire that to a switch and it works.
George, during my research for this model, I watched the Junior /Mike Beam video that I think your talking about and Junior said that nascar made them run the wiper motor that year. When I heard that I knew I had to make one for this model. If Junior had to run it then any other 63 nascar car including Fords, Plymouths, Pontiacs or Dodges, would have had to run one too. Ive built a couple of other 63 nascars that I spent time cutting the wiper motor off the firewall and now find that I didn't have to.
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Thanks, Gary and John. I really appreciate the kind words.
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Starting on the interior.
(https://s6.postimg.org/jbvsfb0f5/63juniorwipsstonin1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/bvwitj7kx/63juniorwipsstonin2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/9ekrm988x/63juniorwipsstonin3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/435v1jtw1/63juniorwipsstonin4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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David, I use the scribe and whittle technique, using a #11 exacto blade.. The dremel tool can get away from me, and I don't really like the sound of it either. Yes the belt type sanding stick is a wonderful tool. Thanks again for your interest in the build.
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Got to agree on the Dremel. When I first got back into modeling seriously around 2000, I shot out and got an electric Dremel "MultiPro" deluxe set with the foot and a half long gray box with ALL the attachments.
The first body I used it on was a JoHan Petty Superbird and as Mark said, it got away from me and I MANGLED that baby! Decided pretty quick that it had more power than I had finesse and went out and got the battery-operated blue "MiniMite" model. It is considerably more manageable but will still get away from you if you're not careful. As a result I use the battery model to rough out some things, but much prefer the control of the sanding sticks and scalpels. The electric model is great for some around the house jobs but hasn't touched a model since that first one.
John
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Got to agree on the Dremel. When I first got back into modeling seriously around 2000, I shot out and got an electric Dremel "MultiPro" deluxe set with the foot and a half long gray box with ALL the attachments.
The first body I used it on was a JoHan Petty Superbird and as Mark said, it got away from me and I MANGLED that baby! Decided pretty quick that it had more power than I had finesse and went out and got the battery-operated blue "MiniMite" model. It is considerably more manageable but will still get away from you if you're not careful. As a result I use the battery model to rough out some things, but much prefer the control of the sanding sticks and scalpels. The electric model is great for some around the house jobs but hasn't touched a model since that first one.
John
Like you said , John. I sometimes use my dremel for areas that I can't hurt the model but hardly ever. I just don't trust myself with it . Plus i hate the high pitch loud sound it makes. Drives me nuts.
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(https://s6.postimg.org/7t5ye6hn5/63juniorwipsinbafo1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/i38ddezsx/63juniorwipsinbafo2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Supertex, I find your build threads very satisfying and enjoyable. It makes my day to tune in and watch you take a Precise-O knife and sanding sticks and turn a blob of plastic into a museum display piece. You have a great passion to build and craft the details in a build and you do it without all that PE and aftermarket stuff stuck on everywhere. Yep, you're the King of Cut, Squire of Scribe and the Sultan of Scratch. I would love to lock you in a room with a pile of Evergreen shapes, kit parts and odds and ends and see what you gloo up when I let you out. I'm gonna keep watching as I am sure are all the others will and wait for the finished jewel. Great work here and keep it coming.
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Supertex, I find your build threads very satisfying and enjoyable. It makes my day to tune in and watch you take a Precise-O knife and sanding sticks and turn a blob of plastic into a museum display piece. You have a great passion to build and craft the details in a build and you do it without all that PE and aftermarket stuff stuck on everywhere. Yep, you're the King of Cut, Squire of Scribe and the Sultan of Scratch. I would love to lock you in a room with a pile of Evergreen shapes, kit parts and odds and ends and see what you gloo up when I let you out. I'm gonna keep watching as I am sure are all the others will and wait for the finished jewel. Great work here and keep it coming.
Thank you George, but you're way too kind. This is just a way to keep an old man busy during the day so he does'nt go nuts.
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Well, if it works for you, do it. I was not that lucky, as now I had to learn to type with my feet. I can't get my hands to the key board with this goofy jacket they make me wear. I don't think I'M the one thats crazy, I think its the guy that designed this jacket they make me wear. Gotta go, I hear those guys in the white coats unlocking the door……………………...
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Well, if it works for you, do it. I was not that lucky, as now I had to learn to type with my feet. I can't get my hands to the key board with this goofy jacket they make me wear. I don't think I'M the one thats crazy, I think its the guy that designed this jacket they make me wear. Gotta go, I hear those guys in the white coats unlocking the door……………………...
George...Ya know...I look forward to all the responses that you post....You certainly have a GREAT sense of humor my friend!!!! You make me smile big or outright laugh. My wife asks me what the heck I'm laughing at...She thinks I'M CRAZY...LOL What color are those coats????
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always wondered why they're called STRAIGHT JACKETS........?????????????????!! :o ??? ::)
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I needed a piece of plastic that was kinda bubble shaped to fill in the back corners of the interior tub. Something to replicate the inner rear fenders that protrude into the tub area on both sides. I found this bubble pack for tomatoes that filled the bill.
(https://s6.postimg.org/cj9o7z2i9/63juniorwipsfiinpu3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I used a tube cut in half to replicate the drive shaft tunnel at the rear of the tub.
(https://s6.postimg.org/n63hdeidd/63juniorwipsfiinpu1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/c6ia1sry5/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/bgzhpewjl/63juniorwipsfiinpu2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/qcy0x0fo1/63juniorwipsfiinpu4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/9cf4ocach/63juniorwipsfiinpu5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Man Mark...you keep blow'n me away bud...I see you look for GOOD PARTS in the same parts houses as I do! LOL..
What kind of body putty do you use? Do you thin it At all?? You use a lot of it and it really looks like it lays down smooth and it easy to sand. I use 2 part evercoat and The red single stage tube Bondo. The Evercoat is easy to sand but...if ya get it to hot then it will set up REALLY FAST. The Bondo shrinks and cracks reall easy...soooo I'm looking for something in between I guess...Kinda both of both worlds you might say...
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Man Mark...you keep blow'n me away bud...I see you look for GOOD PARTS in the same parts houses as I do! LOL..
What kind of body putty do you use? Do you thin it At all?? You use a lot of it and it really looks like it lays down smooth and it easy to sand. I use 2 part evercoat and The red single stage tube Bondo. The Evercoat is easy to sand but...if ya get it to hot then it will set up REALLY FAST. The Bondo shrinks and cracks reall easy...soooo I'm looking for something in between I guess...Kinda both of both worlds you might say...
Gary, I use Tamiya white putty because it is available at hobby lobby. the only draw back to it is, if you put it on too thick,it has some shrinkage and also it takes a long time to set. You end up having to add a second coat,so to speak. But once it does cure completely,it does sand out nicely,and I don't really have a cracking problem with it,unless it is put in an area that might flex. I tried to use the evercoat stuff but could never get the ratio right of hardener to putty and also the fumes are not pleasant or safe if you want to use it inside the house. Also the evercoat would get air pockets in it that you would have to fill with one part putty. I use to use squadron putty but Hobby Lobby no longer sells it.
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(https://s6.postimg.org/x4xmr9r41/63juniorwipspuputu1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/y77t9thn5/63juniorwipspuputu2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/xugf3n735/63juniorwipspuputu3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/qeh5hur3l/63juniorwipspuputu4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Thanks for the putty info Mark. I hear you on the ratio for the evercoat. I mixed to hot one time and never got it on the project before it started to set up. LOL Ya know...I might try some of that Tamiya putty. Do you thin it at ALL??
I'm really liking the way this interior is coming along.
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Gary, Im glad you asked Supertex about the putty, I keep forgetting to ask him that. I get all sidetracked when he builds a part out of nothing. I can't wait to see how he scratch-builds the grease for the ball joints. I will have to round up a tube of the Tamiya putty, my vocabulary might improve if I throw away this tube of Squadron white.
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Thanks for the putty info Mark. I hear you on the ratio for the evercoat. I mixed to hot one time and never got it on the project before it started to set up. LOL Ya know...I might try some of that Tamiya putty. Do you thin it at ALL??
I'm really liking the way this interior is coming along.
Gary, I don't thin it at all. Just use it right out of the tube. Usually takes 12 hours to cure out, so you can sand it. I try making adding putty, the last thing I do, before I quit working for the day, so the next morning it will be ready to sand.
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Gary, Im glad you asked Supertex about the putty, I keep forgetting to ask him that. I get all sidetracked when he builds a part out of nothing. I can't wait to see how he scratch-builds the grease for the ball joints. I will have to round up a tube of the Tamiya putty, my vocabulary might improve if I throw away this tube of Squadron white.
Ok , George. You lost me now, on the squadron putty, hindering your vocabulary. Your going to have to splain that to me.
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Gary, Im glad you asked Supertex about the putty, I keep forgetting to ask him that. I get all sidetracked when he builds a part out of nothing. I can't wait to see how he scratch-builds the grease for the ball joints. I will have to round up a tube of the Tamiya putty, my vocabulary might improve if I throw away this tube of Squadron white.
Ok , George. You lost me now, on the squadron putty, hindering your vocabulary. Your going to have to splain that to me.
LOL...I think he means...He'll stop swearing at that ugly GREEN stuff. You know how US short track guys get sometimes...ya gotta use a 50lb sledge and a WHOLE lot'ta of swear words to get it right...When that don't work...get the torch out and CUT IT OFF..didn't need that part anyhow!! LOL
Also Mark...which tube do you use...I saw three different tubes. White...Grey...and a fast set tube. I know it's not the fast set as it says it will set up in 1 min in sun light and 2 min under florescent lighting. By chance..Do you know what the difference is between the white and Grey fillers are? Thanks Mark...
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Supertex, I think David Splain'ed it. The stuff never did "Hinder" my vocabulary, It just caused the use of words and names you don't say around women and children. It was getting pretty bad because my cat would leave the room and she don't give a "Rats" what I do or say usually. Guess I will have to alter my communication skills a mite so's you Texas boys can follow along. Better yet, when ya gets a chance, come up here to the Ozarks and visit a spell, We'll learn ya to talk normal and how to enjoy some really great baked sow belly, grits and collard greens.
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Thanks for the input David. I've used the Squadron(both colors) and I really didn't like it. I went to the evercoat about 15 yrs ago and liked it. But...I saw how smooth and wet looking that Marks putty jobs were and was really curious. I also use the Bondo RED that's in the tube. It dries in about 20 min and can be sanded. The only Draw back is... it has to be applied in layers like the squadron does. Sooo... I did see that Tamiya makes a fast setting one part putty... I might give that a try...along with the grey/white.
Supertex, I think David Splain'ed it. The stuff never did "Hinder" my vocabulary, It just caused the use of words and names you don't say around women and children. It was getting pretty bad because my cat would leave the room and she don't give a "Rats" what I do or say usually. Guess I will have to alter my communication skills a mite so's you Texas boys can follow along. Better yet, when ya gets a chance, come up here to the Ozarks and visit a spell, We'll learn ya to talk normal and how to enjoy some really great baked sow belly, grits and collard greens.
LOL...Uuuggghhh...I think that was me There LT75... Yes'sr...I just might take a small road trip and meet you guys down there for some of that belly with Grits and Greens. I eat grits and Greens quite often here at the house. Haven't tried sow belly though. Love pork soooo...I'd be up for try'n it for sure. Give my some of that Crystal Hot sauce, a little salt and pepper and I'm good to go. Oh Yea...don't forget the corn cakes and black eyed peas....Man...I'm get'in hungry :P
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Now that I go back and read all them posts again, it was you Gary. When you look through Tri-focal glasses that needs a good cleaning all these posts run together. That is why my modeling has really slowed down, I see like Mr. McGoo. Just today I looked through the wrong "Focal" and I poured my coffee BESIDE the cup instead of in it. Guess I should have listened in my younger days when they told me to toss those Ray Bans and get a good welding hood.
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That's O KAY George...I'm looking through Bi's as I (try to) type. That's the thing about GRAVITY..(Great John Mayer song)..everything heads south with it...ya know?? LOL Oh well...Give me the Binocular magnifiers and I'm good to go.
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Gary, Im glad you asked Supertex about the putty, I keep forgetting to ask him that. I get all sidetracked when he builds a part out of nothing. I can't wait to see how he scratch-builds the grease for the ball joints. I will have to round up a tube of the Tamiya putty, my vocabulary might improve if I throw away this tube of Squadron white.
Ok , George. You lost me now, on the squadron putty, hindering your vocabulary. Your going to have to splain that to me.
LOL...I think he means...He'll stop swearing at that ugly GREEN stuff. You know how US short track guys get sometimes...ya gotta use a 50lb sledge and a WHOLE lot'ta of swear words to get it right...When that don't work...get the torch out and CUT IT OFF..didn't need that part anyhow!! LOL
Also Mark...which tube do you use...I saw three different tubes. White...Grey...and a fast set tube. I know it's not the fast set as it says it will set up in 1 min in sun light and 2 min under florescent lighting. By chance..Do you know what the difference is between the white and Grey fillers are? Thanks Mark...
Gary, I just use the white because I think that is all that Hobby Lobby sells. David's right, the squadron takes less time, which I liked. But he's also right that you have to use it fast and leave it alone, till it cures.
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Thank you Mark. I think I might try the white and the fast set up.... Of course...I've got this huge tube of evercoat to use up first... :-\
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(https://s6.postimg.org/c1fful0fl/63juniorwipsstwhwr1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/tepq9g3gh/63juniorwipsstwhwr2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/tepq9giw1/63juniorwipsstwhwr3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/9wv2tie8h/63juniorwipsstwhwr4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Man...this is really looking good Mark.
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Hey Mark, what is that curved tube in the middle, coming over the seat? The craftsmanship all looks great!
I'm guessing a shoulder support, yet to be padded.
Rett
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Hey Mark, what is that curved tube in the middle, coming over the seat? The craftsmanship all looks great!
David its the bolster to hold the driver against centrifugal force. Yes it will need to be padded and attached to the bar running from front to rear.
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Man...this is really looking good Mark.
Thanks, Gary. I really appreciate the feedback.
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This is coming along very nice Mark, I can tell a ton of work has already gone into this build. I'm sure it will be worth the effort when finished.
Bob
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This is coming along very nice Mark, I can tell a ton of work has already gone into this build. I'm sure it will be worth the effort when finished.
Bob
Thanks, Bob. I really appreciate the feedback.
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(https://s6.postimg.org/ogyu2l1g1/63juniorwipsseboin1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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(https://s6.postimg.org/vwy3oecap/63juniorwipsseboin3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/3k2lxxiup/63juniorwipsseboin4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/xbzod50j5/63juniorwipsseboin5.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/dhdmr0lbh/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/u554ti0nl/63juniorwipsseboin6.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/cruuend29/63juniorwipsseboin7.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/e6wf3de59/)
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I love it when a build comes together....This is looking real good Mark...
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Thanks, Gary. David, I build the cage attached and then I cut it loose with my sprue cutter. I then can wrap the bars that have tape on them prime the cage and then paint it. I will add circular pieces to the ends of each bar so the cage will fit back in place just like it was removed. You lose some material when cutting the cage out with the sprue cutter. Of course I do this before I prime the cage. Its the only way I can make a cage that fits properly.
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You might try that Handi-Tak stuff that Gary uses. I picked some up at the local Bed Bath and Beyond and used it on the cage for the Lennie Pond car I am building and it is pretty cool stuff. Of course most of the time I just drill four holes in the floorboard and let the legs run a little long and then when I get the body on it, I mark them and whack them off. Regardless, your cage work is exemplary and looks great!
Thanks, David. I'm not familiar with the handi-tak stuff. Do you have a link or could you explain what it is? I also use the hole through the floor method and then hack off the excess.
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Hey Mark...here's a google search Link I did for ya. You can get this stuff at many different places too. Lowes carries the same stuff(different color--it's blue) and it made by Loctite. Works pretty good for temp stuff. https://www.google.com/shopping/product/2346599326804082926?lsf=seller:7815,store:10742395718746759499&prds=oid:776108682228264070&q=handi+tak&hl=en&ei=ACiHWpKfBcO-jwPO2JzwAQ&mcid=PS_googlepla_nonbrand_windowtreatments_local&lsft=mrkgcl:609,mrkgadid:3253336509,rkg_id:0,mcid:PS_googlepla_nonbrand_windowtreatments_local,product_id:10491932,adtype:pla,product_channel:local,adpos:1o1,creative:232742510581,device:c,matchtype:,network:g&lsft=gclid:EAIaIQobChMI5M7xkI2r2QIVS01-Ch3Hpg5dEAQYASABEgJk_fD_BwE
DANG...THAT IS A "UGE ADDRESS...LOL
The way I do all my cage work is...I pin (using .028 copper wire) all four uprights. Not gluing them to the chassis. I then do the rest of the bar work(except the top center bars...that's last) and then pull it out...paint it and then when the interior is ready for it...I just plug the pins( the 4 upright bars) back into the holes that I drilled for the pins. That technique works pretty good. Hope this helps ya Mark..
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(https://s6.postimg.org/8x9tvd83l/63juniorwipsintosw1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/o5zr95h7l/63juniorwipsintosw2.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/8kifp7599/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/h2rvti975/63juniorwipsintosw3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/r02wmlbo1/63juniorwipsintosw4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I almost forgot to put valve cover breathers on the engine. That would have looked dumb.
(https://s6.postimg.org/5qfabqfxt/63juniorwipsintosw5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/6spgu9r1d/63juniorwipsintosw6.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Hey Mark...here's a google search Link I did for ya. You can get this stuff at many different places too. Lowes carries the same stuff(different color--it's blue) and it made by Loctite. Works pretty good for temp stuff. https://www.google.com/shopping/product/2346599326804082926?lsf=seller:7815,store:10742395718746759499&prds=oid:776108682228264070&q=handi+tak&hl=en&ei=ACiHWpKfBcO-jwPO2JzwAQ&mcid=PS_googlepla_nonbrand_windowtreatments_local&lsft=mrkgcl:609,mrkgadid:3253336509,rkg_id:0,mcid:PS_googlepla_nonbrand_windowtreatments_local,product_id:10491932,adtype:pla,product_channel:local,adpos:1o1,creative:232742510581,device:c,matchtype:,network:g&lsft=gclid:EAIaIQobChMI5M7xkI2r2QIVS01-Ch3Hpg5dEAQYASABEgJk_fD_BwE
DANG...THAT IS A "UGE ADDRESS...LOL
The way I do all my cage work is...I pin (using .028 copper wire) all four uprights. Not gluing them to the chassis. I then do the rest of the bar work(except the top center bars...that's last) and then pull it out...paint it and then when the interior is ready for it...I just plug the pins( the 4 upright bars) back into the holes that I drilled for the pins. That technique works pretty good. Hope this helps ya Mark..
Thanks for the link, Gary. Your method for your cages sounds great. I need to try it next time.
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It's pretty simple and I forgot to mention that I leave the pins fairly long. Say about..3mm. It makes it easier to use the CA when remounting the cage to the chassis. If there is a little stick through the bottom...I just snip it off and add a dot of the chassis color.
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(https://s6.postimg.org/qenl0x4gx/63juniorwipspafrbl1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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(https://s6.postimg.org/my8yead1t/63juniorwipsadheco1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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(https://s6.postimg.org/xl2rjpdhd/63juniorwipsadheco3.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/my8yea5bx/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/dqgpxldpd/63juniorwipsadheco4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Mystery 427
(https://s6.postimg.org/3pu976h9t/63juniorwipsmyenpa1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/jbbkr50xt/63juniorwipsmyenpa2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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(https://s6.postimg.org/6wosqtov5/63juniorwipsmyenpa4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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This is really coming along nicely. BTW, like you engine stand, never thought of that!!!
Rett
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The engine is looking good Mark. That rubber piece on the breather snorkel looks real. Is it a rubber piece?
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Thanks, guys. Gary, its not rubber, just flat black paint. I don't usually wire my engines, but will do this one.
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Getting close to the end. Being held up by having to alclad the rear bumper. Once that gets done, I can assenble the different sub assemblies together, add exhaust, and finally decal and future.
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How's this cool build coming along Mark? Looking forward to seeing some update pics...
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Gary, funny you should ask. I just finished the model build at 5 p.m. local time. I will decal tomorrow and hopefully do the pictures either Sunday or Monday. Thanks for your interest in the build.
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Can´t wait to see it, Mark ...
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Thanks, Michael. Just hope there are no issues with the decals or the future.
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Here is the finished interior. I can reveal these now because the final pictures are ready to post. I like to post interior shots because its hard to get good pictures of the interior after it is installed in the model.
(https://s6.postimg.org/6asiw72ox/63juniorwipsfifiin1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/70bb8kqdt/63juniorwipsfifiin2.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/hn54dzyj1/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/8fcvx9wlt/63juniorwipsfifiin3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/a75us7341/63juniorwipsfifiin4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/hadq7t0tt/63juniorwipsfifiin5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Here are the decal sheets. The finished pictures of the car on in the early grand national forum.
(https://s6.postimg.org/lzo1lq28h/63jundecalsheets.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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That really came out nice Mark.
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This is awesome!! Where did you get the seat belts or just the hardware???
Rett
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This is awesome!! Where did you get the seat belts or just the hardware???
Rett
Rett, the seat belts and shoulder harness are made from 1/8 inch black art tape you can purchase at Hobby Lobby. The hard ware is made from evergreen styrene strip. the side of seat hardware is craft wire.
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Mark,great scratch work as usual,I was wondering where you went,good to see your work again...
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Mark,great scratch work as usual,I was wondering where you went,good to see your work again...
Thanks, Oldgi. Where did you use to see my work if I might ask?
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randy ayres site,I also got some left over decals from you...
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randy ayres site,I also got some left over decals from you...
Ok, I guess you changed your name for this site. Hope those leftovers worked out ok for you.
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I did...forgot why though
retroguy was the one used on the old randy ayres site...
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I did...forgot why though
retroguy was the one used on the old randy ayres site...
Ok , now I remember you. You did a lot of awesome builds . One I remember, I think, was a Fred Lorenzen 58 Ford. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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This is awesome!! Where did you get the seat belts or just the hardware???
Rett
Rett, the seat belts and shoulder harness are made from 1/8 inch black art tape you can purchase at Hobby Lobby. The hard ware is made from evergreen styrene strip. the side of seat hardware is craft wire.
Thanks man. They are great looking. Hopefully I'll be able to get that good with some one day....
Rett
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I did...forgot why though
retroguy was the one used on the old randy ayres site...
Ok , now I remember you. You did a lot of awesome builds . One I remember, I think, was a Fred Lorenzen 58 Ford. Correct me if I'm wrong.
nope not me maybe someone with similar name and/or spelled different...sorry I was one of the people with endless questions about your builds
in fact here's another question...I forgot if you were on photobucket or fotki
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Mark,I was checking the prices of the kit you used,prices start @ 25.00+ship up to 50.00+ship...that's just absurd
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Mark,I was checking the prices of the kit you used,prices start @ 25.00+ship up to 50.00+ship...that's just absurd
You're right, Michael. I was lucky enough to find that kit from a vendor at the IMPS show in Stafford Texas last spring. If it had been that much I doubt if I would have bought it. And that's the AMT kit which isn't near as nice as the Revell kit for that car. I'm going back this coming April 28th hoping to find a 54 Hudson Club Coupe. I might have to pay big bucks for it.
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I'm working on the revell "california wheels" kit that I got a few years back,it's a very good kit...
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMT-63-Impala-SS-Car-Model-Kit-8231-OPENED-BOX-AS-IS/202273800905?epid=2255499440&hash=item2f187542c9:g:uXkAAOSw~oFXMLTU
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-CHEVY-IMPALA-SS-MODEL-AMT-ERTL/312099919421?hash=item48aa9ad63d:g:XQEAAOSww85adlve
Either one would work for what Mark did.
I'm sure that's the same kit with different box art.