deconstucting a model

[MarkJ]

What do you guys use to break down the glue on an old model to deconstruct it?  I think I have heard that there is something you can use but it was a long time ago and basically I have forgotten what it is. Any help would be very appreciated.

[Olderndirt]

I usually put it in the freezer for a day, and then try to break the bond. Some cements release after a dose of purple cleaner. A lot of cement works by melting and bonding the glue seams, so if the model was built with a good hot liquid cement they will be prett hard to deconstruct.

  Olderndirt

[Lefturns75]

You're gonna hear a lot of ideas, like soaking it in the purple pond, putting it in the freezer and a few others.  Those ways work ok I guess but the best way I have found to break one down that was built with tube glue is Testors Acryl #50495.  You apply it to the joint just like you would liquid glue with a brush.  It will cause you to get some smudges if you are really sloppy and keep it away from clear parts, it will frost em over.  When done rinse the parts in water and it stops the action.  You might have to use your Xacto to open the joint just a little on heavy glued parts and then flow the juice in.  Give it a few minutes and start carefully working the part and it will come loose. 


I have tried the other ways and to me this works the best and is the fastest.  If you have ever built or seen one of those old IMC kits, you know how many tiny parts are there.  I pulled down a Lola T-70 Gloo-Bomb and saved every part but a seat. 


I will not even try any of the other methods again after finding this stuff.  Do what works best for you but if you try this stuff and learn to use it, you will never mess with the other ways again.  It also will clean just about any type paint from your brushes and will help you save one.   I have not tried this on models built with super glue so I have no idea how it will react with that.  For the old tube glue built stuff it works great.   

[MarkJ]

You're gonna hear a lot of ideas, like soaking it in the purple pond, putting it in the freezer and a few others.  Those ways work ok I guess but the best way I have found to break one down that was built with tube glue is Testors Acryl #50495.  You apply it to the joint just like you would liquid glue with a brush.  It will cause you to get some smudges if you are really sloppy and keep it away from clear parts, it will frost em over.  When done rinse the parts in water and it stops the action.  You might have to use your Xacto to open the joint just a little on heavy glued parts and then flow the juice in.  Give it a few minutes and start carefully working the part and it will come loose. 


I have tried the other ways and to me this works the best and is the fastest.  If you have ever built or seen one of those old IMC kits, you know how many tiny parts are there.  I pulled down a Lola T-70 Gloo-Bomb and saved every part but a seat. 



I will not even try any of the other methods again after finding this stuff.  Do what works best for you but if you try this stuff and learn to use it, you will never mess with the other ways again.  It also will clean just about any type paint from your brushes and will help you save one.   I have not tried this on models built with super glue so I have no idea how it will react with that.  For the old tube glue built stuff it works great.

Thanks, George. Do you know where I can get this stuff? I have a 45 year old model I need to deconstuct.

[Lefturns75]

I have picked Acryl up at Hobby Lobby and I have seen it a number of times on Ebay.  Any hobby shop that stocks Testors products should have it or be able to get it for you.   When and if you find it and put it to use, be sure and have patience and work slowly.  Dont expect it to just make the part fall off when you flow the stuff in the joint, give it some time to work and work the part carefully and slowly.  It does work and I have saved many parts and kits using it.  Give it a chance to do its job and you will be happy with the results.  I have had success with stuff built with liquid glue but it works best with stuff assembled with tube glue.  I have not tried it on superglue stuff, for that I just go with Acetone.  I stay away from those built up where the OB used a full tube of Lepage's or Ross Model glue.  On glue-bombs like that , you're not gonna save much of it anyway no matter what you use.  Good luck and if you have any questions just ask. 

[MarkJ]

I have picked Acryl up at Hobby Lobby and I have seen it a number of times on Ebay.  Any hobby shop that stocks Testors products should have it or be able to get it for you.   When and if you find it and put it to use, be sure and have patience and work slowly.  Dont expect it to just make the part fall off when you flow the stuff in the joint, give it some time to work and work the part carefully and slowly.  It does work and I have saved many parts and kits using it.  Give it a chance to do its job and you will be happy with the results.  I have had success with stuff built with liquid glue but it works best with stuff assembled with tube glue.  I have not tried it on superglue stuff, for that I just go with Acetone.  I stay away from those built up where the OB used a full tube of Lepage's or Ross Model glue.  On glue-bombs like that , you're not gonna save much of it anyway no matter what you use.  Good luck and if you have any questions just ask.

Well, I built this one 45 years ago, and I know it was tube glue for plastic, but I don't remember the brand. My wife found this build in an old paper bag in our dumper room and some of the parts have already fallen off. Luckily I have found all the parts in the bag for this model, because  there were two other models in the bag that also had parts that had fallen off. I've been working on the decals for this build, so I'm hoping many more will just fall off, or just fall apart when played with. I really want this to work because I have found, that if I could find one of these kits today, unbuilt, it would be worth over 250 bucks.

[Brian Conn]

     I tried using Acetone to take apart some absolute glue bombed engines....it didn't work.  I suspect the glue was the reason.

 I used Bob Smith Industries  (BSi) UN-CURE on the engines.  Some came apart easier than others, but over all I'm very satisfied with the results.   

 
       

[john2]

   I agree with Left turns.  It works very well.

[Gary Davis]

I have picked Acryl up at Hobby Lobby and I have seen it a number of times on Ebay.  Any hobby shop that stocks Testors products should have it or be able to get it for you.   When and if you find it and put it to use, be sure and have patience and work slowly.  Dont expect it to just make the part fall off when you flow the stuff in the joint, give it some time to work and work the part carefully and slowly.  It does work and I have saved many parts and kits using it.  Give it a chance to do its job and you will be happy with the results.  I have had success with stuff built with liquid glue but it works best with stuff assembled with tube glue.  I have not tried it on superglue stuff, for that I just go with Acetone.  I stay away from those built up where the OB used a full tube of Lepage's or Ross Model glue.  On glue-bombs like that , you're not gonna save much of it anyway no matter what you use.  Good luck and if you have any questions just ask.

Thanks for the GREAT INFO LT. I went to hobby lobby on line and found it. I have at least two old kits that I found at a Model show that I got fairly cheap and they were in that built fall apart state that Mark is talking about. I've done the Freezer thing and it does work...but...it's limited. I'm anxious to try this stuff out. Looking at your Pics of the Lola and all the parts laid out...makes me think it works a lot better than the Freezer.

Hey Mark...here's a link for Hobby Lobby that I used to buy this stuff. It's only $5.99 + the shipping. I had to pay a tax on mine(Washington State..ya know). But...It's on the way.. Here's the link and I hope this helps ya.   https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Paint-Brushes/Dried-Paint-Solvent-Acryl-Cleaner---1-75-Ounce/p/1105

[MarkJ]

Thanks, Gary. I saved it as a favorite. I already deconstructed the model using my sprue cutter, a knife, and a screwdriver. But there was a 71 Petty Plymouth and a wood brothers mercury in the bag also and I will try to get some of the stuff so I can use it on them.