Short Track Models
Construction Topics => Fab shop-under construction pics => Topic started by: MarkJ on September 13, 2017, 09:41:53 AM
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Using a 40 ford standard coupe to build a 38/39 ford coupe.
(https://s6.postimg.org/4s8xqcpld/38francewipsfigrwo1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/r31unft75/38francewipshobato3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/pa3jcuxe9/38francewipsadhepo2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/yd5sp41ap/38francewipsputofe3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/gu9voiykx/38francewipsadpufe1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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:) Very interesting, Mark. Keep'er goin'.
No, David. I am a slopper and dropper.
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I've never understood why, with all the resin casters, one of them did'nt cast a 38 de luxe/39 standard Ford front end clip, to fit the very popular '40 Ford Kits. It hard enough to get correct '39 deluxe parts with AMT's limited production of the '39/'40 sedan kit. And, even then there are not really all the parts it would take to make a true '39 de luxe. OK, OK, I'll get down off my soap box.
Olderndirt
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I think that Early Racing Classics(?) had a body for the '39 Ford ('38)(?) but he has been long retired.
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Thanks guys. The main difference between the 38 deluxe and 39 standard is the roof. The 38 has a horizontal feature line below the back glass that the 39 does not have. also the trunk on the 38 is smaller than the 39. There are slight differences to the grille and hood trim. the 38 has a handle on the hood that you turn and pull to open. the trunk opening handles are a little different as well. The 40 standard has the same roof and trunk as the 39. The hood, grille and front fenders on the 40 are completely different than the 39. Pictures of the real car that i'm doing show that for some reason it had 38 front sheet metal and grille on a 39 standard body. So that's the way I'm going to try to make it look. I will reveal the real car when the model is completed.
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This is a very interesting project Mark. It's looking good so far. Keep us posted.
Bob
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I'm really liking this project Mark. Looking great as usual....
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Thanks for the feedback guys. I really appreciate it.
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Really neat project, Mark!!! Should be a sweet one when you're finished!!!😎👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🏁
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Almost time to prime.
(https://s6.postimg.org/hj7zt1swh/39francewipsfifiho1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/y9jdidrbl/39francewipsfifiho2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/l43vc9xg1/39francewipsfifiho3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/gkrmqrfkh/39francewipsfifiho4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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I primed with gray and then white primer on top. When you sand it helps you find the low spots scratches and pin holes. I used a dog bowl to wetsand in. It beats standing at the sink. Its now ready for the final primer coat.
(https://s6.postimg.org/4tvs9sa6p/39francewipssafipr1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/uqpgmedu9/39francewipssafipr2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/3vff7hwup/39francewipssafipr3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/46wvk9dap/39francewipssafipr4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/61ebfqpox/39francewipssafipr5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Wow, here's a serious builder! Great work as well as a great tutorial! I'm too old to attempt something like this. I'd never get it done, lol....Really looking forward to seeing this one done!
Rett
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Wow, here's a serious builder! Great work as well as a great tutorial! I'm too old to attempt something like this. I'd never get it done, lol....Really looking forward to seeing this one done!
Rett
Thanks, Rett. I really appreciate the reply.
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Glad to see someone else use the light white coat over the gray for finding the low spots. Without that very useful technique Mark, I just don't have the vision to see them. Funny thing (probably happens to you too), it'll "feel" smooth as glass in your fingertips but when you prime and then hit with the little block sander or whatever, you "see" how "bad" it really was! (ha!)
In any event, this is masterful work Mark and a pleasure to watch as it morphs into some artwork. Your work inspires me.
Thanks, David. A few years ago I saw an article in Scale Auto about the 2 color primer trick and thought, now that makes perfect sense. Nothing worse then priming and sanding and then putting down a gloss dark color and then being able to see the putty or scratches and pin holes under the paint. Thanks again for your feedback. I really appreciate it.
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Got what I hope is the last primer coat on the body. Also primed the engine and got the frame assembled.
(https://s6.postimg.org/s4j4wy1e9/39francewipsfrrepr2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/u05x83q8h/39francewipsfrrepr4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/dqfr57fkh/39francewipsfrrepr7.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/7tgh24ntd/39francewipsfrrepr9.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/r8mnhhrpt/39francewipsfrrepr5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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It's really looking good Mark. Looking forward to seeing color on this puppy...
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It's really looking good Mark. Looking forward to seeing color on this puppy...
Thanks, Gary. Shouldn't be too much longer. Its a two tone paint job, so that's going to be kind of a drag. I really hate to mask.
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I'm going to have to change the steering wheel and the instrument panel a little. The 40 and the 39 are different. Also I got the body masked for the first color. One thing bad about acryl paint. It does not fuse itself to other acryl paint so you have to completely mask the two areas from each other. It bonds great to primer but not to other acryl paint. If you don't mask each area and then mask, when you pull off the masking, the paint on top of the other paint comes off with the masking tape. I found this out the hard way on my last build.
(https://s6.postimg.org/l9coj2b2p/39francestwhfi1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/hedvu8hap/39francestwhfi2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/emum3mis1/39francestwhfi3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/h2wfhh0up/39francestwhfi4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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love the steps your taking us thru and I am sure the end result will be beautiful
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I didn't know that about Acrylics and that sounds like a bummer. Could you shoot a clear coat in between them as a barrier? Might have to be Future because I don;t know if the new synthetic clear lacquers would attack the acrylic or not? Especially if yo are using water-based acrylics Mark. The "new" paints have so many solvent variables and are called by so many names that it's gotten to hard to make any "rules" without testing first. I only bring this all up because masking is not my thing; I don't like the time it takes and all the hassle I go through masking. Uggh!
Thanks , David. Testors makes a gloss clear acryl that I use after painting. it polishes up nicely with 6000 through 12000 grit paper and then a final coat of future ( which is now called pledge floor care) gives a really glossy see yourself finish. I used that method on my 49 olds and was really pleased with the result.
(https://s6.postimg.org/e5rr8v9ch/49redrtrearup.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Man Mark...that paint on the Olds looks 15mi deep! Is that Testors clear labeled under Model Master ACRYL? I have a 1oz bottle(#4638) that's labeled that way and haven't tried it yet. It's also a cream color. Just curious as to if that's the same paint.
Oh yea...what colors are you going with on the FORD?
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Man Mark...that paint on the Olds looks 15mi deep! Is that Testors clear labeled under Model Master ACRYL? I have a 1oz bottle(#4638) that's labeled that way and haven't tried it yet. It's also a cream color. Just curious as to if that's the same paint.
Oh yea...what colors are you going with on the FORD?
Yes, Gary. It is 4638/ Gloss Clear acryl. Your right it looks like a cream color in the bottle but it sprays on clear. Go figure. The 39 Ford will be black and red. I'm guessing at the red because I only have one black and white picture of the car. You can tell the lower color is definitely black but I just have a feeling the upper color is red. Some one will probably come up with a color picture of the car after I am finished to prove me wrong but so be it if that happens. The picture was taken back in 1940 so the chances of a color picture of the car floating around out there are pretty slim.
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This build is coming along very nice Mark.
I'm learning a lot by following along with this project.
I can't wait to see the finished build.
Bob
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This build is coming along very nice Mark.
I'm learning a lot by following along with this project.
I can't wait to see the finished build.
Bob
Thanks Bob. I really appreciate the feedback.
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Man Mark...that paint on the Olds looks 15mi deep! Is that Testors clear labeled under Model Master ACRYL? I have a 1oz bottle(#4638) that's labeled that way and haven't tried it yet. It's also a cream color. Just curious as to if that's the same paint.
Oh yea...what colors are you going with on the FORD?
Yes, Gary. It is 4638/ Gloss Clear acryl. Your right it looks like a cream color in the bottle but it sprays on clear. Go figure. The 39 Ford will be black and red. I'm guessing at the red because I only have one black and white picture of the car. You can tell the lower color is definitely black but I just have a feeling the upper color is red. Some one will probably come up with a color picture of the car after I am finished to prove me wrong but so be it if that happens. The picture was taken back in 1940 so the chances of a color picture of the car floating around out there are pretty slim.
Thanks for the info on the clear Mark. I think I'll try it on the Sprintcar build coming up.
Red and Black is going to look killer on that car. Looking forward to seeing pics of that...for sure.
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Man Mark...that paint on the Olds looks 15mi deep! Is that Testors clear labeled under Model Master ACRYL? I have a 1oz bottle(#4638) that's labeled that way and haven't tried it yet. It's also a cream color. Just curious as to if that's the same paint.
Oh yea...what colors are you going with on the FORD?
Yes, Gary. It is 4638/ Gloss Clear acryl. Your right it looks like a cream color in the bottle but it sprays on clear. Go figure. The 39 Ford will be black and red. I'm guessing at the red because I only have one black and white picture of the car. You can tell the lower color is definitely black but I just have a feeling the upper color is red. Some one will probably come up with a color picture of the car after I am finished to prove me wrong but so be it if that happens. The picture was taken back in 1940 so the chances of a color picture of the car floating around out there are pretty slim.
Thanks for the info on the clear Mark. I think I'll try it on the Sprintcar build coming up.
Red and Black is going to look killer on that car. Looking forward to seeing pics of that...for sure.
Thanks, Gary. That clear works good, but the key to it is finishing off the process with the future. I really like the process because of the non toxic qualitys of the acryl and also it works well in the heat and humidity down here. I've never had it blush on me. Of course it wouldn't matter if it did because I would polish it out anyway. Yes, I really like red and black together. Thanks again for your input.
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Hi Mark, I am also building a 38 coupe using a very similar technique to what you have shown here. You did a far nicer job than I managed on fabricating the grill.
Mine is good enough for a dirty old stockcar but I was hoping to use it as practice for a nice contemporary street rod and it is nowhere near good enough for that. I gently bent pieces of thin Evergreen and glued a few in at a time over many nights. Could you please enlighten me on how you achieved such a uniform grill?
Cheers
Alan
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Hi Mark, I am also building a 38 coupe using a very similar technique to what you have shown here. You did a far nicer job than I managed on fabricating the grill.
Mine is good enough for a dirty old stockcar but I was hoping to use it as practice for a nice contemporary street rod and it is nowhere near good enough for that. I gently bent pieces of thin Evergreen and glued a few in at a time over many nights. Could you please enlighten me on how you achieved such a uniform grill?
Cheers
Alan
Alan, I cut out the area between the fenders and bent it in a little to make it stick out more if you can picture that. I then used .025 evergreen styrene rod and stacked it one on top of the other to achieve the grill. I found a front head on picture of a 38 ford grille and scaled the picture to 1/25 scale to use as a guide. below are some pictures that I hope will help. Thank you for your interest in the build.
(https://s6.postimg.org/eqtwctz0x/38francewipsfigrwo2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/6b4bvbw5t/38francewipsfigrwo3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/aiz442xld/38francewipsfigrwo4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/r31unft75/38francewipshobato3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/pa3jcuxe9/38francewipsadhepo2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/hj7zt1swh/39francewipsfifiho1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Thank you for the heads up on the Clear Mark....Also...this is a Great Tutorial Mark. Your fab work is top notch.
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Thank you for the heads up on the Clear Mark....Also...this is a Great Tutorial Mark. Your fab work is top notch.
Thanks, Gary. I was going to post pictures of the dash and steering wheel progress, and also, I got the red painted on the body, but "Post Image" said they were temporarily down for maintenance. Hopefully they will be back up and running tomorrow.
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I used the .020" (.50mm) OPAQUE WHITE POLYSTYRENE V-GROOVE SIDING for the sides on that Pontoon Boat that I am building and it not only looks great but it is super-easy to work with. I used .040 spacing for my boat but the sheets go all the way to .025 spacing. I think the next time I am going to do a scratch grille I may try to use one of those siding sheets. I am not quite as skilled as Mark as I have always had "trouble" stacking little rods on top of each other and getting them uniform and glued "invisibly". This "try" may eliminate that part. We'll see.
https://evergreenscalemodels.com/collections/020-50mm-opaque-white-v-groove-siding/products/2025-025-opaque-white-v-groove-siding
Thanks for the tip David. That might be a great way to do a grille. I just wish I had a local hobby shop that sold evergreen styrene.
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Hey Guys...Here's the link to evergreen. I've bought from them directly for the last 12 yrs or so. They used to be up here in Woodinville Wa. but have moved EVERYTHING ( lock stock and Barrel) to Chicago. But...they still have all the right materials. They're easy to deal with annnd...they ship right away.
https://evergreenscalemodels.com/
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Thanks Mark. I am definitely going to try that on my next attempt. Looks like my problem was trying to leave a gap when it looks perfectly believable without the gap. Thanks for the very descriptive photos.
And David, do you have a part number for that Evergreen siding? I can't recall seeing it that fine before. It sure would be handy.
Cheers
Alan
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Hey Guys...Here's the link to evergreen. I've bought from them directly for the last 12 yrs or so. They used to be up here in Woodinville Wa. but have moved EVERYTHING ( lock stock and Barrel) to Chicago. But...they still have all the right materials. They're easy to deal with annnd...they ship right away.
https://evergreenscalemodels.com/
Gary, can you order from them over the phone? I have never ordered anything where I have to give a credit card number online. Call me a dinosaur but I've gotten along without it this long and don't want to start now.
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(https://i.imgur.com/6CBB3Ay.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rh4eZCC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ASCsB37.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4KGTS9J.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yO06OYD.jpg)
Postimage is still down so I had to use imgur. I find it a little harder to use so I'm looking forward to getting postimage back.
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Hey Guys...Here's the link to evergreen. I've bought from them directly for the last 12 yrs or so. They used to be up here in Woodinville Wa. but have moved EVERYTHING ( lock stock and Barrel) to Chicago. But...they still have all the right materials. They're easy to deal with annnd...they ship right away.
https://evergreenscalemodels.com/
Gary, can you order from them over the phone? I have never ordered anything where I have to give a credit card number online. Call me a dinosaur but I've gotten along without it this long and don't want to start now.
Yes you can order it over the phone Mark. I'm with you on the Card on the net thing. I've had to change my # twice in the past 5 yrs. These guys are good to work with. Give them a call. They are great to work with...
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Wow, that's all I have to say! Wow! Serious building, here!
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Hey Guys...Here's the link to evergreen. I've bought from them directly for the last 12 yrs or so. They used to be up here in Woodinville Wa. but have moved EVERYTHING ( lock stock and Barrel) to Chicago. But...they still have all the right materials. They're easy to deal with annnd...they ship right away.
https://evergreenscalemodels.com/
Gary, can you order from them over the phone? I have never ordered anything where I have to give a credit card number online. Call me a dinosaur but I've gotten along without it this long and don't want to start now.
Yes you can order it over the phone Mark. I'm with you on the Card on the net thing. I've had to change my # twice in the past 5 yrs. These guys are good to work with. Give them a call. They are great to work with...
Will do, Gary. I'm starting to run out of everything. Thanks again for the link.
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Wow, that's all I have to say! Wow! Serious building, here!
Thanks, Tom. That's what I say every time I see one of your builds. Wow for sure.
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Got some more stuff airbrushed today. I'm really liking the model master acryl. It was kind of humid today but no blushing problems at all. I did 4 different colors in one sitting. Had no problem cleaning the brush between colors. of course at the end I took it apart to clean it completely. The first picture was after I masked it this morning to get ready for the black paint.
(https://s6.postimg.org/z53geqbo1/39francewipsgoblpa1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/ad3u7huhd/39francewipsgoblpa2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/jic71cxw1/39francewipsgoblpa3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/o824pyowh/39francewipsgoblpa4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/weu4hjez5/39francewipsgoblpa5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/hwwx9jno1/39francewipsgoblpa6.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Now I need to wetsand the body and shoot the clear. Then I can polish the body and maybe then I can start assembling the model. I need to prime the dash and paint it. I made some guage decals for it.
(https://s6.postimg.org/65dnchifl/39francewipsrefocl1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/qqsf4e00h/39francewipsrefocl2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/4svyall01/39francewipsrefocl3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Hello Mark, that is one kool looking Ford... I too don't know why this body was never done in resin!!!! Wish someone would of along the way....
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I agree, heck all that would need to be made to make a '39 Standard is the front fenders, hood, dash, and of course a banjo steering wheel. The '40 Ford coupe, and sedan are among the oldest, most popular kits that are currently offered. The sedans are more expensive, but are still readily available. It just seem like a likely trans-kit to me.
And while they are at it, make 1/25th scale '40 pickup cab, and bed, so one could build an entire line in the same scale.
As you can probably tell, I've built a ton of these kits. And, have modified them in every way I can imagine.
Olderndirt
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That red and Black look Great on that body Mark...
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Thanks guys. I just finished clearing the body and the interior is almost complete except for the floor shifter which I had to scratch build. The engine is painted so I can install it in the frame so before you know it I can start assembling the sub assemblies together. Also the tire/wheel assemblies are finished. Getting close to the end on this one.
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Killer looking race car happening here!
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Killer looking race car happening here!
Thanks, Tom. Your builds always give me inspiration.
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Got the interior finished.
(https://s6.postimg.org/nbiodswb5/39francewipsfifiin1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/6djnrymxd/39francewipsfifiin3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/5pfemrdld/39francewipsfifiin4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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The wheels that come in the kit wont work for this car and luckily I had some wide 5 wheels left over from years back. I turned the whitewalls which are plastic to the inside and there was no place to mount the wheel to the axles if you don't use the kit wheels. I cut off short pieces of 7/32 inch tube and glued them on the back of the wide 5's, and cut off the tips of the axles. Now I will be able to install the wheel/tires to the model.
(https://s6.postimg.org/3m4zf3dsh/39francewipsfifiin5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/9pmjz0429/39francewipsfifiin6.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/s6gyptk0h/39francewipsfifiin7.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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I got the body cleared so I just need to wet sand it with 6000,8000, and 12000 paper to get it ready for the future (pledge floor care) after I install the decals. I also installed the engine to the frame. I just need to add the water hoses.
(https://s6.postimg.org/69ufpg6tt/39francewipsfifiin9.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/jcq28px1t/39francewipsfifiin10.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/l72wqgk29/39francewipsfifiin11.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/l8cujvlw1/39francewipsfifiin12.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/pmlbvpwgh/39francewipsfifiin8.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Please. . . everyone. . . stand back and give the man some room! Where are my "CRAFTSMAN AT WORK" barricade signs? Mark, I may have to try this Model Master Acrylic paint in the future (for health reasons?). What do you thin it with?
Thanks, David. I use testors universal acrylic thinner #50496. it comes in a 4 oz bottle and hobby lobby sells it for $7.49 . Hobby lobby also sells small mixing cups with plastic covers that come 12 to a bag for $2.99 . They are .4 oz cups. I fill the cup half full of paint and thin it 50 % which you can easily eyeball because the cups are clear. I then use a battery powered mixer to mix the paint. I put it in my paashe vl airbrush and have figured out a good air pressure to paint amount setting on the airbrush using trial and error on a piece of primed plastic till I got the finish I wanted with out allowing the paint to run or orange peel. another good thing about the acryl is you can add white or black to either lighten or darken the color of the paint that's in the bottle. And its much less toxic than other paints.
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Please. . . everyone. . . stand back and give the man some room! Where are my "CRAFTSMAN AT WORK" barricade signs? Mark, I may have to try this Model Master Acrylic paint in the future (for health reasons?). What do you thin it with?
Thanks for the GREAT info Mark.
Thanks, David. I use testors universal acrylic thinner #50496. it comes in a 4 oz bottle and hobby lobby sells it for $7.49 . Hobby lobby also sells small mixing cups with plastic covers that come 12 to a bag for $2.99 . They are .4 oz cups. I fill the cup half full of paint and thin it 50 % which you can easily eyeball because the cups are clear. I then use a battery powered mixer to mix the paint. I put it in my paashe vl airbrush and have figured out a good air pressure to paint amount setting on the airbrush using trial and error on a piece of primed plastic till I got the finish I wanted with out allowing the paint to run or orange peel. another good thing about the acryl is you can add white or black to either lighten or darken the color of the paint that's in the bottle. And its much less toxic than other paints.
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Lookin reall good!!!!!!
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Lookin reall good!!!!!!
Thanks, Doc. I really appreciate the reply
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I got the body wet sanded with 8000 and then 12000 paper. Now I can go ahead and assemble the model. Then I will need to bare metal foil some moldings, decal it and then future it. I went ahead and took pictures of the acryl thinner and the mixing pots I mentioned before. I also made a license plate for the model. The car doesn't have any lights so I have no idea why they raced it with a license plate.
(https://s6.postimg.org/kugkhe841/39francewipslipldo1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/6lgxzbtld/39francewipslipldo2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/avvluwyoh/39francewipslipldo3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/qy2qf1nrl/39francewipslipldo4.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/mc6m6p28d/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/vvbpmf0cx/39francewipslipldo5.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/q75eviw0d/)
(https://s6.postimg.org/bdvcoidn5/39francewipslipldo6.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Wowzers!! 8) And you're not even done yet!
Thanks, David. Hopefully not much longer.
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It's done except for the decals, the tiny parts that I usually knock off while decaling, and the future. Also I do a last inspection to find any touching up I might need to do. No more pictures till its completely finished. Will probably post the final pictures in a different thread. Which section would be the best to post them in?
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OOoohhh, the wait is killing me!!!!!! ARGH!!!!!! LOL ;D
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Mark,
That build is way to nice for a race car.
You'll need to putt around the back of the field so you don't get a scratch on the car.
That is a beautiful build and I can't wait to see it finished.
Bob
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Thanks, Doc and Bob. I wish I didn't have to put the decals on it because its pain staking work.
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Mark,
I always enjoy applying the decals, that's what brings the race car to life.
Bob.
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Thanks, Doc and Bob. I wish I didn't have to put the decals on it because its pain staking work.
I'll be patient!!!!!!!!! I hope!!!! LOL
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Mark,
I always enjoy applying the decals, that's what brings the race car to life.
Bob.
Bob, I too enjoy applying power slide or other quality decals but the ink jet I made to install are never fun to apply. I have to apply them then trace around them with a #11 exacto blade and then remove the excess decal material with a toothpick and tweezers. That's the only way I can do this model because nobody I have found does them except one maker but his sheet is incomplete and might not be sized right. Oh well I just have two more decals to do the trace process to, and then I will be finished.
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Man Mark...that paint came out looking GREAT...as usual. Usually Black and Red are good color combination...and this proves it.
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Finally got it finished. The pictures are over in the "cars with fenders" forum.
(https://s6.postimg.org/69o8c1vld/final39rvfordrtftup.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Man..oh...Man... that really looks GREAT Mark. The decals really bring that puppy to life...don't it? Great Job...
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Thanks, Gary. I really appreciate the feedback.