Short Track Models
Construction Topics => Tips-tricks => Topic started by: Tom Birky on December 16, 2017, 10:06:26 AM
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Picked up a grail I've been after for years. The body has a slight warp in it. Any advice on how to gently straighten without ruining it?
thanks! tb
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:) No.
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What I have always heard is to dip the piece into hot water for a few seconds and try to straighten it. I have not tried to straighten any bodies yet, although I have a 66 Plymouth Fury III that has a kinked up front fender.
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David said exactly what I was going to (pretty much:) but put it more concisely and probably better. Like he said, I too have not encountered a warp problem that couldn't be fixed with hot water and patience. What I've done in the past is to boil a big enough pot of water, remove it from the heat, let it sit for several minutes and then just "trial & error" it while paying really close attention to A-pillars, window straps, or other thin, fragile areas. Another thing David mentioned that I think REALLY helps is the slight over-correcting and quenching with cold water after your final tweak.
Being a little ocd, I generally chill the water with ice that I use to "shock" it with:) but I doubt that's necessary!
Also, using a sink has the advantage of being able to direct the hot water from the spigot to a particular trouble spot in addition to submerging it. An interesting thing I've found is that in my case the hottest tap water will easily straighten a Polar Lights Ford/Merc body but I have to use the simmered boiled water to straighten the Revellogram early-mid '80s Monte Carlos, Buicks, etc.
John
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Good advice. However, my problem is that I usually don't notice a slight warp until it's too late. Like after paint! Maybe I'm just not good at test fitting.....and I do try to be!
Rett
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I use davids method pretty much to a tee, I have also used my industrial steamer on really warped bodies before, but you have to be really careful not cause more damage or burn yourself. davids method works in most cases, PATIENCE is the key word.
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Being VERY CAREFUL, I get the old tea kettle full of water on my gas stove and get the steam rising out the spout. I practiced on several old bodies until I got it down pat. I never get too close to the spout , just about 8" out works best for me. Use patience carefully working out the warp. I over correct like David said, then I turn around and drop it in the sink full of cold water. Resin responds faster, so be cautious.
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thanks for the tips from all of you. have tried the hot water with little success but maybe didnt have it hot enough. going to try again this weekend on another project this way if i mess it up it will become a junker. lol.
The tap water needs to be as hot as possible...don't add any cold water...another tip: use the sink closet to the hot water heater.
Other possible ways that I have used:
Steam from a kettle....hair dryer.....tying the body down, so that there is no warpage visible, to something flat and leave it in the direct sun light .. be sure and check progress