This is going to be a replica of the Trones Sunoco #39 driven by the late Bobby Hersh. This car raced in central, Pa.
During 1962 and the following years the cars were getting smaller, lighter and faster. The safety features were not keeping up with the size and speed improvements. This car had no X bracing in the roll cage, no headrest and was very light for the time. Headrests were made mandatory in 1964.
The car was brand new at the end of 1962 and painted and ready for the 1963 season.
First race for the new car end of 1962
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This is the car later in the 1963 season.
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I'm using a Don Edmunds kit with a lot of modifications for this build.
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The body panels are made using .5MM aluminum flashing.
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Bob
Great start Bob, love watching your progress. How do you hold the flashing together? (Glue). I can't identify the engine, although it looks like 2 upper radiator hoses?
Tom
Tom,
I use super glue on the flashing. It holds very well. I glue the seams first, then put a heavy layer of glue on the inside of the seams and hit it with some baking soda, it sets immediately. The flashing is a little harder to shape than plastic, but I like the rigidity.
The engine is a fuel injected 327 Chevy.
Bob
fun build to watch!love both the frame and body work
This is looking good Bob. Looking forward to the next update.
Very nice so far!!! I love watching your builds come together and they're always beautiful!!! I look forward to the next installment!!!😎👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🤗🏁
A lot of detail in the works here....looks like a winner!
Great start on this one.....
1
I finished the front shock mounts, radiator support, Nerf bars and a little engine work. Scratch built magneto.
We discussed plastic coated wire on the forum a while back. I used plastic coated wire on this build for the roll cage, rear frame section, shock mounts, radiator support and Nerf bars.
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Bob
Coming along very nicely!!
looking sweet!love the frame and body work!
Thanks everyone for all the nice comments on this build. I think you all know I love replica's.
I will have another update sometime soon.
Bob
Man Bob...your fab work is just a huge pleasure to look at. I'm with you on doing replica builds as I really like doing them also. Question...what do you use to cut the coated wire with? Your joints on the roll cage look great.
Gary, to answer your questions.
I use a small pair of diagonal cutting pliers to cut the wire to length, leaving it slightly long. Then I touch the ends of the wire on a small belt sander I purchased from Harbor freight. After I glue the cage wire connecting the front and rear roll cage, I apply a layer of CA glue around the seam and let it dry. It looks almost like a weld.
The next time I take pictures of the progress on the build, I will include a picture of the cutting pliers and the small sander.
Bob
Thanks for the info Bob. I do pretty close to the same thing but...I use a hardwire cutter that I bought from Micro Mark. It works good but some times it's a little bulky to use. Specially when cutting very small pieces(2-3mm) for pinning. The CA thing is exactly the same technique I use at the joints. Great minds think alike...right?? Yours came out so clean that I thought that you might've figured out how to cope ( fish mouth) the bar ends and then glued them. That wire in there is pretty darn hard...so I think it's piano wire wrapped in PVC plastic.
Gary,
I'm pretty sure it's not piano wire in the plastic coated wire. It cuts much easier than piano wire. I cut it with a small pair of cutting pliers from Harbor Freight. I took a picture of the pliers beside a can of spray paint to show how small they are.
I also included a picture of the small sander I purchased at Harbor Freight.
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Bob
Progress on the build updated below.
Bob
I was able to finish the job I despise the most, installing the plug wires and boots.
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I finished the rear bumper and got some paint on the frame.
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Seat roof and belle pan made.
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OH yea....this is lookig REAL good Bob. Thanks for the info on the cutters and sander.
Wow!!
This is really coming along quite nicely!
Bob what was the wheel base on these cars back then ? your working your FAB skill's on this little hot rod , I'm really liking where you are going ... PLEASE KEEP POSTING photo's as you get the work load down ans finished !
Jim,
These cars were referred to as 30 X 90s
The rules for these cars was minimum frame width at the driver position 30 inches.
Minimum wheel base was 90 inches.
Many of these cars were longer than 90 inches.
I usually end up with a scale wheelbase of around 100 inches to get the correct look.
Bob
Progress update 11/21/17
Body and roof about ready for some paint. Decals on the way.
Bob
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that is coming along nice!
Man Bob...that's really looking good!
David,
The plug wire boots are small pieces of heat shrink tubing.
I slide the small piece onto the plug wire and hit it with a little hand held torch I bought at a flee market. This shrinks the tubing.
I made the magneto out of plastic coated wire and two sizes of aluminum tubing.
The plug wires are black 26 gauge wire I got at Wall Mart in the craft area.
Bob
David,
I always used the pre-wired distributors and magnetos in the past. I don't remember the manufacture but they are no longer available.
I tried another brand with the mag and the wire separate. You had to glue the wire in a small hole in the mag. CA glue wouldn't hold the wires and I ended up very frustrated. That's why I made my own for this build. If I could find a good one with the wires already attached I would purchase some.
Also I would be very interested in knowing how you make your boots. You may have a better method than I use.
Bob
Quote from: Bob P. on November 21, 2017, 05:23:58 PM
David,
I always used the pre-wired distributors and magnetos in the past. I don't remember the manufacture but they are no longer available.
I tried another brand with the mag and the wire separate. You had to glue the wire in a small hole in the mag. CA glue wouldn't hold the wires and I ended up very frustrated. That's why I made my own for this build. If I could find a good one with the wires already attached I would purchase some.
Also I would be very interested in knowing how you make your boots. You may have a better method than I use.
Bob
Hey Bob...I use the dist and mags from M.A.D. Pre-wired and you can get different colored caps with different colored wires. Chris Morgan is the owner and he does a great job with his resin pieces. Here's the link to his sight.... http://www.madmodeling.com/store/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=distributors&sid=3v6li267cil6mxiq516pnj1zuuvyo15z
Thanks for this information Gary. I looked at the web site and I will order several of the magneto's soon.
Bob
Quote from: Bob P. on November 22, 2017, 06:59:10 AM
Thanks for this information Gary. I looked at the web site and I will order several of the magneto's soon.
Bob
You are welcome Bob. I've found that MADs Distributors are the most realistic and fair priced out there. Arrow Head Aluminum was really good at one time too. Most of the rest of the pre-wired stuff is just wires stuck in a tube. Heck...I can do that here at the shop.
Quote from: Bob P. on November 27, 2017, 12:57:23 PM
Update 11/27/17
I have the body and roof painted, and headers on motor.
Waiting for decals in the mail any day now then final assemble.
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Bob
This is really taking shape Bob. That color of red sure pops.