Short Track Models
Construction Topics => Fab shop-under construction pics => Topic started by: Brian Conn on February 09, 2019, 01:48:42 PM
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To show you that I can do more than just commentary on the forums ::)
For those of you that have been watching this transition :-\ for the past 11 years , please indulge me....for the rest of you, here's the back story...fallow along.
This is what I started with....
(https://images40.fotki.com/v1648/photos/0/3714830/14343444/yellow_funnycar_kit1-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/yellow-funnycar-kit.html)
Built this snapper sometime in the late 70's ....by early 1980 I was "trying" to make this into a dirt Late Model. Some time in the mid 80's this build and a few others where boxed up and stored in my parents basement. Discovered the box in 2008 and only the body, pictured below, was salvageable.
(https://images20.fotki.com/v1646/photos/0/3714830/14343444/Picture008-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/picture008.html)
Rebuild as it appeared in the Summer of 2008
(https://images51.fotki.com/v767/photos/0/3714830/14343444/011-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/011.html)
I never was satisfied with the rebuild...I hurried in areas like the front and rear suspension as well as the body.....the build represents a dirt late model built locally to qausi N.D.R.A rules in 1980.
Small Block Ford w/ Top loader 4 speed trans.
(https://images46.fotki.com/v521/photos/0/3714830/14343444/007-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/007.html)
The only piece's from the '08 re-build that did not need anything done to it was the engine and tranny....Clevor engine (Cleveland heads on a Windsor block according to the magnifying glass) ,Detail Master pre wired distributor and oil breathers, scratch built Moroso deep sump oil pan, scratch built Moroso valve covers (carved from BB Chevy resin pieces),solder headers,cast Moroso air cleaner cover,scratch built Holley intake, scratch built Lakewood bell housing, scratch built shifter linkages.
After this pic was taken, I changed my mind and went in a different direction. Decided to change the intake to a medium rise and replace the carb w/ a Holly 4150 resin piece, also going with a taller air cleaner element w/base and make this a dry sump engine.
THE EXTREME MAKE OVER
(https://images20.fotki.com/v1646/photos/0/3714830/14343444/march252014003-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/march-25-2014-002.html)
This begins what will,hopefully, be the last time I have to do anything with this build. I like for my builds to be challenging, but not impossible. As I stated before ,I was never satisfied with the way it turned out. I didn't want to part this one out for other builds. I did the build previously pictured in the Summer of 2008...by the grace of God, my abilities have improved some what from where I was then. There are tools at my disposal that I did not have in 2008 that make this make over a lot easier than the re-build I did then....mainly a digital caliper and a magnetic base jig.
I still have issues with glue control and painting...I have learned some new techniques that I will be trying with this make over.
I am farther along than what these pictures show...I am just bringing everyone up to speed as to how things have progressed.
This is what I will be starting with on the make over.....multiple issues with this cage and chassis...first jig built frame that I did...needless to say that particular jig is a thing of the past due to design flaws that came up later on in the build.
Engine cross member is not centered properly, thus the engine and transmission did not align properly with the rear suspension.
The front frame stub needs replaced ahead of the fire wall ...design flaws of the jig caused issues with mounting steering components and coil over shock set up.
Both the front and rear suspension were lacking any real detail...this build is supposed to represent the 1980 racing season....I need that detail to show and be period correct.
The rear stub frame rails are too short in length, thus the rear suspension was off.
(https://images44.fotki.com/v1644/photos/0/3714830/14343444/march252014005-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/march-25-2014-005.html)
Removed all of the Black electrical tape that was suppose to be the Black plastic that was used back in the day. If you want the look of Black plastic, then use Black Plastic. As it turns out, this body is still too narrow ( remember this use to be a 1:32 scale that was up sized to a 1:25 scale) ...I now have a set of digital calipers that I did not have in 2008 , so now I use the AMT/ERTL 1977 Mustang II to get all of the proper measurements utilizing the digital calipers.
The Left half side of the roof has issues....more than likely due to all of hacking and whacking that has taken place on it.
Going to re-work the front clip...make it a little bit shorter and re-do the fender wheel well radius' and flares....bubbled fenders and hood
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(https://images20.fotki.com/v1666/photos/0/3714830/14343444/Picture0091-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/picture009-1.html)
I decided to build the car right this time since I had gained some skills and had the right tools to do so. I was up for a challenge ,so I decided to up size the car from a 1:32 scale to a 1:25 scale in small areas of the body while leaving other areas alone...such as the roof, which has a lowered appearance to it since that portion is still in 1:32 scale. The body width and length was increased. The wheel base was increased to a 1:1 scale 108" (108mm. 1:25 scale) I used a 1:25 Mustang II hatchback body as a reference.
(https://images44.fotki.com/v1644/photos/0/3714830/14343444/mandotherthings001_zpsaf764793-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/sept28thbaptizimand.html)
As it turned out, the body was too narrow,so a cut was made where the roof was already messed up.......since I put this body together a few years ago, I purchased a set of digital calipers and have starting wearing glasses for the up close ,small stuff....
(https://images45.fotki.com/v1649/photos/0/3714830/14343444/mandotherthings011_zps7c035846-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/sept28thbaptizimand-1.html)
This area of the roof had issues.....cut out everything that was not right...added a small piece of plastic on the bottom side of the roof for reinforcement and support and then built up the area with squadron putty...this also ties the two portions of the roof together. Used braces in the trunk and engine bay areas to keep the proper width of the body in place.
(https://images46.fotki.com/v521/photos/0/3714830/14343444/008_zps2c4e4ff6-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/008-zps2c4e4ff6.html)
Used a plastic deli tray bottom for the Black plastic pieces on the front side of the front wheel well arches...will end up painting them Matte Black.
(https://images45.fotki.com/v1649/photos/0/3714830/14343444/012_zps8d2c7d8a-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/012-zps8d2c7d8a.html)
Used plastic prescription medicine bottles cut to form the bubbled/raised fenders on the front. The body is turning into a putty mobile, but at least this time it won't look like a bag of Walnuts.
If I had a dime for each time that I have changed my mind with this build I would have a whole lot of dimes
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(https://images14.fotki.com/v1643/photos/0/3714830/14343444/11221520008_zpsok2jvrur-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/11-22-15-20008-zpso.html)
Using sprew,scrap pieces of flat plastic and assorted Evergreen plastic I scratch built the swing arm style accelerator pedal (left), the floor mount brake master cylinder and pedal (middle) and the floor mount hydraulic clutch reservoir and pedal (Right) .
The shaft of the accelerator pedal will pass thru the fire wall just adjacent to the bell housing and hydraulic lines will come off of the brake master cylinder and clutch fluid reservoir.
I seen an interior that David Bogard had done http://www.shorttrackmodels.com/index.php?topic=1016.30
http://www.shorttrackmodels.com/index.php?topic=1108.0 after I had done this...I really like the way that he did the reinforcement ribs on the interior tin....so at some point and time I will remove the interior and give what he did a try.
Also, I decided to remove the front frame section....so some of these pictures are out of sequence as far as where I am at presently.
ON TO THE REAR FRAME SECTION:
(https://images15.fotki.com/v792/photos/0/3714830/14343444/61814002_zps6c5bbd60-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/6-18-14002-zps6c5bbd60.html)
Again, another area that was affected by a poorly designed jig (my own fault) was the rear stub...fortunately all that is wrong is that the frame rails are too short to correctly mount a leaf spring rear end. Since the frame rails are going to be lengthened, the diagonal bars coming off of the main portion of the cage will have to be removed and replaced with longer pieces.
(https://images20.fotki.com/v1647/photos/0/3714830/14343444/62014005_zpsf1a36d9e-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/6-20-14005-zpsf1a36d9e.html)
Here is the new rear frame section.... late 70's Howe leaf spring "copy"....used a 1/8th scale draft from Howe that was reproduced to 1:25 scale to get things right.
Cause & effect......version 3.0
(https://images54.fotki.com/v1662/photos/0/3714830/14343444/31718026-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/3-17-18-026.html)
I am just going to start over with a bare frame forward of the engine fire wall. I know that the rear axle is now right on the money, but in measuring, the wheelbase is off....so I removed the ganky engine cross member and control arms, which I was going to redo anyway, the front lower control arm strut cross member, the steering linage assembly and steering gear box and front hoop since the new mounting points will be different but correct this time. Decided to go back in with a manual rack & pinion steering set up.
(https://images14.fotki.com/v1665/photos/0/3714830/14343444/42918008-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/4-29-18-008.html)
Seen manual rack & pinion steering set ups on a couple of dirt Late Models from 1980 helped change my mind. The Black piece I located in the salvage bin at the LHS ....looked like it could be made into a plausible rack & pinion....shortened up the width a little bit and added some plastic pieces to give it the look of a manual rack & pinion.
This will be the master for my resin cast.
(https://images16.fotki.com/v156/photos/0/3714830/14343444/11319022-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/1-13-19-022.html)
I gave up trying to scratch build a Late Model front stub...always seemed like either the frame rails or a cross member was off. I have wanted to cast a Late Model front stub for quite awhile to save time on scratch building and aligning. Found a Revell/Monogram 1990's front stub (Lumina & Monte Carlo) and an Revell/Monogram 1980's G.M engine cross member in the salvage bin at the LHS.
(https://images16.fotki.com/v156/photos/0/3714830/14343444/11319025-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/1-13-19-025.html)
Going to be casting the Late Model front stub and lower control arms together in one mold. Narrowed the stub to 32mm. Reworked the front frame horns to level them out. Narrowed the engine cross member and used Evergreen flat stock to box in the engine cross member to locate the lower control arms. Cut 2 lower control arms from flat styrene. Front strut mount cross member being reused from the build.
With this front stub , I can build it either with coil springs or by removing the weight jack/spring bucket build a coil over set up. I can use this with a perimeter frame in its present configuration, or remove the Left side diagonal frame piece for an offset frame or remove both diagonal frame pieces for a ladder frame. It will be able to accept either a rear steer Ford or front steer G.M steering and also a rack and pinion steering set up.
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WOW!!! This will be stunning to see when completed. You have certainly done your homework on this build I can't wait to see the completed build. Great work!
Al
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Nice to see this one again.....!
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Thank you, Gentlemen.
.... I don't know if this is the proverbial "a bad penny always turns up" or "the third time is the charm" I guess we'll see.
I'm seeing more and more re-builds and re-works than before, so I figured I'd jump in with mine that had it's humble beginnings as a Snap-Tite Funny Car dragster that I had built somewhere between 1976 and 1978 ...I honestly don't remember but its the closest I can figure.
I put the pictures in order so that they would make some sense now , but chronologically I have left quite few pictures out seeing's as they are no longer relevant to the build....like fighting the issues with the front suspension and front frame section.....changing my mind and going from a front steer G.M type steering to a manual rack and pinion to name a few.
Just when I think that I am done with a particular area of this build , I see something that someone here on the forums has done with their build and I want to give it a try.
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Well thanks to you David I keep seeing things on your builds that I simply have to give a try on mine ;)
(https://images56.fotki.com/v1664/photos/0/3714830/14343444/21419007-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/2-14-19-007.html)
Got a couple Late Model front frame sections poured....was able to graft this one to the existing frame rather easily....over all I'm satisfied with the way it turned out and looks. For once everything measures out where it should be :)
I simply admire what David Bogard (http://www.shorttrackmodels.com/index.php?topic=1108.0.html) and Tom Birky (http://www.shorttrackmodels.com/index.php?topic=1203.0.html) did on a couple of recent dirt Late Model builds with their interiors....so much so that I am going to carefully remove what I have done so far with mine and use David Bogards idea that he did with the Larry Phillips wedge Late Model. There are also some small interior details of Tom Birky's Tom Hearst Dirt Late Model build that I would like to incorporate as well.
(https://images56.fotki.com/v1664/photos/0/3714830/14343444/21419012-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/2-14-19-012.html)
I'm not changing the configuration of the interior on this build any, which could come back to haunt me later, but rather trying to enhance what I already have done to it.
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...Sometimes you have to take a couple of steps back to move forward.....
(https://images49.fotki.com/v1511/photos/0/3714830/14343444/3219022-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/3-2-19-022.html)
After 12 years,I had a major AHH HA moment .... took a while but I figured something out.
I have studied what Gator and David Bogard have done with their respective builds utilizing the NASCAR chassis....read and re-read their w.i.p's and how to's....been wanting to do something quite similar.
Here is what I have come to discover....
There is a portion of the build below the floor pan and in front of or behind the fire wall....then there is everything else that you can easily see. The main cage will now be reconstructed into two separate parts....what's visible and everything else, focusing on what's easily visible without having to turn the car over and etc. The two portions wont be attached to each other, but rather give the illusion that the tubing passes thru the floor pan or fire wall. This should give the interior a cleaner appearance and not detract from the builds appearance.
The changes made are not radical as it looks...I carefully removed the main cage and relate etc. from the frame.
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Wow! Big difference! Much better Brian.
Tb
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Once I figured out that its everything that you don't see and do see with these particular builds, I concluded that this is how I am going to do these scratch built cages and chassis from now on....it takes a little more effort, but worth it in the end.
(https://images12.fotki.com/v1226/photos/0/3714830/14343444/32419009-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/3-24-19-009.html)
Pretty much everything that you don't see or wont ever see because.......
(https://images40.fotki.com/v26/photos/0/3714830/14343444/32419011-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/3-24-19-011.html)
.....the front and rear fire walls and floor pan obscure the view, which...
(https://images56.fotki.com/v1664/photos/0/3714830/14343444/32419017-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/3-24-19-017.html)
...make it necessary to build the upper portion of the main cage separate. Nothing is permanently attached, its just sitting in place...I didn't include the door bars on either side because they would not co operate to get their pictures taken. Next, I am going to get it back up on all four corners ,again ::)
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What a difference Brian. This is really looking good!
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Doesn't even look like the same guy did this! It looks really quite good Brian! Impressive!
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Ah yes, you have learned well Grasshopper. When you can build on rice paper and not leave a mark, you are there.
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Looking better all the time.
Alk
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Who says you can't make a "silk purse"?!
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Things are beginning to slow down work wise, so I am getting some time spent in the hobby room...not complaining, but its kind of nice to get reacquainted with everything on the work table.
(https://images40.fotki.com/v381/photos/0/3714830/14343444/52619002-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/5-26-19-002.html)
Scratch built masters for resin cast..... tubular upper control arms and strut type lower control arms.....would like to use these on future dirt Late Model builds.
The shorter lower control arm is for the Left side and the longer lower control arm is for the Right side for what would have been the offset weight distribution on the chassis. Pictured is the bottom side detail.
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Those master are sure looking good Brian.
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Thanks guys, much appreciated!!
To kind of quote Mark Twain ....taken way out of context of course ::) “The reports of my being blown away to Oz by a Tornado are greatly exaggerated.”
(https://images46.fotki.com/v1637/photos/0/3714830/13988633/0028-vi.gif) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/my-first-album/0028.html)
Either we are going to be swept away by flood waters or blown away by a Tornado here in N.E Kansas it seems of late. (https://images20.fotki.com/v1632/photos/0/3714830/13988633/tornadocrossing-vi.gif) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/my-first-album/tornadocrossing.html)
I do appreciate very much the checking in to see if things are still standing....the severe storms have been a distraction from building some.......
I would like to get to the point ,sometime, of being able to mix up some resin and pour all of the parts and pieces needed for a build that cant be purchased aftermarket or are not already in the kit...if I am building from a kit. This will save a lot of time from scratch building the same parts over and over every time.
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Since I have them out for the time being I decided to make a mold of the floor mount brake and hydraulic clutch master cylinders for future builds.....two less things to scratch build.
(https://images47.fotki.com/v826/photos/0/3714830/14343444/6219006-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/6-2-19-006.html)
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That’s some great scratch building, Brian! Fun seeing the progress you’re making!
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...ordered what I need to set up the front end ......any thing worth doing is worth doing right....in the mean time , I scratch built a set of leaf springs.
(https://images14.fotki.com/v1315/photos/0/3714830/14343444/7319005-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/7-3-19-005.html)
I just don't have any leaf springs in the spare parts box that have the length that I need ...either too long or too short. The rear frame section on this build is set up to accept the Chrysler style leaf springs and their particular length. The Chrysler style leaf springs have been used on dirt late models for decades.
(https://images40.fotki.com/v719/photos/0/3714830/14343444/7319009-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/7-3-19-009.html)
Hot set up back in the day was the mono leaf on the Right and the multi leaf on the Left. Going to start using Brass on my scratch built leaf springs to give them additional strength....the all plastic ones in the past tended to break too easy.
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Rear end assembly is ready to attach to the rear frame section.....
(https://images41.fotki.com/v1399/photos/0/3714830/14343444/71419c009-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/7-14-19c-009.html)
Basically the same set up with different parts this time around....aftermarket resin cast quick change and axle tube from somewhere ::), after market drive shaft yoke....everything else scratch built (Chrysler style leaf springs,shock and coil over shock,axle damper and mount)
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....Starting to get the front end together...
(https://images45.fotki.com/v1636/photos/0/3714830/14343444/72819012-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/7-28-19-012.html)
I used the penny's in the 4 corners of the center frame section to set the ride height that I wanted...4 penny's high across the front (aprox. 4mm) and 7 penny's high across the rear (Aprox. 7 mm.)
(https://images44.fotki.com/v447/photos/0/3714830/14343444/81119007-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/8-11-19-007.html)
When I went to check the fit up between the lower control arm and the spindle I noticed that there was a gap....
(https://images41.fotki.com/v1399/photos/0/3714830/14343444/72819029-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/7-28-19-029.html)
....So like we do with getting the right fit on the roll cages , I drilled a hole thru the area where the ball joint would be located. Once I got everything fit up/set up I noticed that the lower control arm was too close to the wheel/brake rotor.
(https://images46.fotki.com/v147/photos/0/3714830/14343444/81119029-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/8-11-19-029.html)
To remedy this, I ovaled the hole towards the outer end.....
(https://images42.fotki.com/v905/photos/0/3714830/14343444/81119036-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/8-11-19-036.html)
....and then reset the Evergreen round stock at an outward angle,.....
(https://images49.fotki.com/v120/photos/0/3714830/14343444/81119048-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/8-11-19-048.html)
...and then figured out where to make the cut.
(https://images14.fotki.com/v219/photos/0/3714830/14343444/81119058-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/8-11-19-058.html)
Attached the spindle, thus offsetting the spindle outward enough to clear the lower control arm properly.
(https://images44.fotki.com/v1405/photos/0/3714830/14343444/72819025-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/7-28-19-025.html)
(https://images34.fotki.com/v1623/photos/0/3714830/14343444/81119082-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/8-11-19-082.html)
I offset the spindle outward so as to get additional clearance for the lower control arms. I try to get the outer end of the lower control arm to match up to the area between the brake rotor and wheel as pictured before gluing.
(https://images41.fotki.com/v1397/photos/0/3714830/14343444/72919003-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/7-29-19-003.html)
(https://images41.fotki.com/v868/photos/0/3714830/14343444/72919013-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/7-29-19-013.html)
With these views you can see the top piece I added to the spindle for the offset. Also visible is the angled piece that I added to the spindle for the rack and pinion steering to attach to.
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All this work makes my head hurt.....keep it goin'!
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Thanks guys...much appreciated :)
Actually its easy with these after market parts....the spindles really lend them selves to be modified from their original configuration. Using these parts and setting the ride height with the penny's has made this the easiest scratch built front end that I have done so far.....get the rack mounted and the front coil over shocks installed and this part of the build will be behind me ;D
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Really coming along nice Brian, I can't wait to see the finished product.
Bob
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The front end is DONE....
(https://images49.fotki.com/v120/photos/0/3714830/14343444/83119022-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/8-31-19-022.html)
The only pieces that are not scratch built are the after market spindles,rotors w/disk brakes and wheel backs.
Resin cast Rack and Pinion, Brass fly (fishing) tying beads for the heim joints on the rack steering linages, Elastic bead cord (bracelets, etc.) for the braided steel brake line and soft-round fly fishing lead wire for the steel brake lines. Used hand wound floral wire for the coil springs.
EDIT: Removed the elastic bead cord and replaced both sides with some braided wire (common ground) from an USB cord....the braided wire from the USB cord is more true to scale for brake line than the elastic bead cord.
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Brian, Ive been following this build for a looong time and I am impressed...You have come light years in your experience and the car is looking fantastic!!! Just WOW!!! I'm looking forward to the next installation of this awesome build!!!
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Thank you very much! :) Stick with me on this and I promise you wont be disappointed.
I am pretty sure that this build will end up being the turning point in my model building career....I still have a ways to go before I am completely and totally satisfied with my building skills and habits , but I feel that I am starting to finally be heading in that right direction.
I am treating each section of the car as its own separate build... i.e the front end, the rear end, engine, etc etc. which helps me to concentrate on what I'm doing rather than jumping around from section to section like I had done in the past.
Right now I am doing the rear section...I have to do the battery, fuel cell and oil sump tank before I can set the rear end assembly in place...so far the battery is in place and wired,still have to place the fuel cell and oil sump tank and plumb them both. Had to go back and completely redo the rear shocks as they both where too tall for this configuration....hopefully I'll be able to get around a shoot some pics soon.
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Picking up where I left off prior to the Oktoberfest C.B.P .....
(https://images15.fotki.com/v1669/photos/0/3714830/14343444/10619011-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/10-6-19-011.html)
Got the rear portion done.....had to do this before mounting the rear axle assembly and suspension.
Forgot who I got the fuel cell from....scratch built A/N fittings, used elastic bead cord (bracelets, etc.) for the braided steel fuel line and vent line, scratch built fuel cell breather (between fuel cell and rear cross member)
Resin cast battery w/ bracket. Used computer mouse wire for the positive and negative battery cables.
Resin cast oil sump tank w/ scratch built attached breather... scratch built A/N fittings.
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Nice fab work throughout, Brian!!! This is going to be a killer late model!!!
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Thanks Greg! Your input is appreciated :)
(https://images54.fotki.com/v1224/photos/0/3714830/14343444/101319013-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/10-13-19-013.html)
Finished up the rear axle sans shocks and rear leaf shackles...they will be attached once the rear axle is mounted with the correct wheelbase. Building one section at a time is like a model with in a model...as long as it all goes together and looks decent at a few feet is all that really matters.
(https://images52.fotki.com/v1211/photos/0/3714830/14343444/101319024-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/10-13-19-024.html)
Steam roller tires from the AMT/ERTL 1965 Ford Fairlane Modified Stocker kit ....they look even big with this late model build. After market wheels/hubs and quick change. After market quick change yoke "U" joint. Scratch built Chrysler style multi leaf (L) and mono leaf (R) springs, front leaf spring mounts, rear axle damper,steel braided brake lines w/ A/N fittings on the brake caliper.
EDIT: Removed the elastic bead cord and replaced both sides with some braided wire (common ground) from an USB cord....the braided wire from the USB cord is more true to scale for brake line than the elastic bead cord.
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Got it up on all fours ...again ::)
(https://images15.fotki.com/v1669/photos/0/3714830/14343444/11219011-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/11-2-19-011.html)
Replaced the braided steel brake lines that where on there (elastic bracelet) with some smaller dia. ones (USB cord common ground) ....the larger dia. lines looked like a garden hose attached to the brake calipers, these look a whole lot more plausible.
....Moved on to body work
(https://images52.fotki.com/v1211/photos/0/3714830/14343444/102019005-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/10-20-19-005.html)
Decided to re work the front grill /cowl area to match that of the AMT/ERTL '77 Mustang II. I want to re-do the hood and decided that this would be a good time to make this part of the body right. Also re-shaped the wheel well flares to be 4 scale inches above the fender line and re did what will be the Black plastic that is in front of and slightly above the tires.
(https://images51.fotki.com/v1654/photos/0/3714830/14343444/102019011-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/10-20-19-011.html)
I will be using the AMT/ERTL '77 Mustang II hood as a template. With this, I will be able to get the correct shapes and contours to this area of the cowl/grill.
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WOW, this don't even look like the same car anymore!!! Up on 4 wheels, details looking great, looks like a new body...heck, looks like a totally different new car!!! Nice job so far, Brian!!!
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Looking good Brian, this is coming along nicely.
Bob
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Changed the front bumper.....
(https://images54.fotki.com/v1662/photos/0/3714830/14343444/11319006-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/11-3-19-006.html)
I never was quite satisfied with the plastic bumper cover look with this build originally.....wanted to go with a chrome bumper that would be period correct and fit. I took the dimensions and measurements off of the Futurattractions Ford Fairmont Futura that I got and ground and sanded the Mustang II's front bumper which was just a solid piece of resin anyway. The Fairmonts bumper was smaller and light weight that plausibly would have been used during this period. I still have a little bit more detail to add to the bumper before shooting primer.
The head light area was still at the original 1:32 scale with which the more detail work that I did on the front grill/cowl, it started to stand out more..... so I made some covers to make them look more correct to the 1:25 scale that it represents.
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The engine is DONE......It took about as long to re work the original into its present configuration as it did to freshen up the real thing! ::)
FROM THIS......
(https://images51.fotki.com/v729/photos/0/3714830/14343444/007-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/007.html)
TO THIS.....
(https://images15.fotki.com/v1669/photos/0/3714830/14343444/112319045-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/11-23-19-045.html)
Tranny stayed the same, didn't have to touch it....original block, heads, valve covers, air cleaner cover, oil breathers, headers, water pump and wired distributor. Replaced the original carb and intake with an after market Holley 4150 series carb and a resin cast medium rise intake manifold. Scratch built an air filter element and base. Re routed the original solder headers bringing the Left side header now up and over the transmission case due to clearance issues with the interior. Added after market header collectors. Parts box fan and pulleys. Added steel braided hoses for the radiator and fuel lines to and from the fuel pump to carb.
The biggest change was changing this from a wet sump to a 2 stage dry sump engine. Resin cast dry sump pan, 2 stage pump and Gilmer drive belt w/pulleys. Scratch built A/N fittings. Still need to get everything plumbed.
(https://images52.fotki.com/v1639/photos/0/3714830/14343444/112319006-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/11-23-19-006.html)
(https://images46.fotki.com/v521/photos/0/3714830/14343444/112319025-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/11-23-19-025.html)
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(https://images42.fotki.com/v886/photos/0/3714830/14343444/112319030-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/11-23-19-030.html)
Added some more dimension to the bumper with the Evergreen strip....will get everything smoothed out and ready for some chrome.
Did what was popular back then and drilled some holes in the bumper....lightens it up and less restrictive air flow to the radiator.
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After what seems like forever , I finally finished the engine bay and dry sump system. All that is left is mounting the coil ,which will end up on the fire wall somewhere.
(https://images54.fotki.com/v556/photos/0/3714830/14343444/122919002-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/12-29-19-002.html)
(https://images52.fotki.com/v1552/photos/0/3714830/14343444/122919006-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/12-29-19-006.html)
(https://images45.fotki.com/v1636/photos/0/3714830/14343444/122919012-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/12-29-19-012.html)
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Looking real sweet, Brian! Reminds me of this one of Kenny Schrader!
(https://images15.fotki.com/v1669/photos/5/1679235/13001084/1577763761334-th.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/bondoboy/favorite-stock-cars/1577763761334.html)Hosted on Fotki (https://www.fotki.com)
(https://images52.fotki.com/v1552/photos/5/1679235/13001084/1577763762579-th.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/bondoboy/favorite-stock-cars/1577763762579.html)Hosted on Fotki (https://www.fotki.com)
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Looking real sweet, Brian! Reminds me of this one of Kenny Schrader!
(https://images52.fotki.com/v1552/photos/5/1679235/13001084/1577763762579-th.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/bondoboy/favorite-stock-cars/1577763762579.html)Hosted on Fotki (https://www.fotki.com)
You have absolutely nailed the look that I am after with the rear deck spoiler and side boards/rudders ....similar to the previously done build/version from '08 only this time with more clear plastic to represent the Lexan. That picture that you posted is the first time ever that I saw that "Kenny car" ...another one saved to the hard drive,thanks :)
This thing gonna start and run when you're done? A lot of "working" detail in this one!
If that engine fires up and runs, then perhaps I should lay off of the New Years Eggnog ::)
This is my very first build utilizing a dry sump system.....I wanted to go that route to lower the engine and create the much needed space under the hood. I figured I go all in before I did the research on what entails a dry sump system.....needless to say I put the cart before the horse. Once the engine was placed , the 2 stage pump and Gilmer drive belt assemblies are all but obscured. I did manage to find just enough room to place the 2 stage oil filter set up between the Left side of the engine and back side of the fan shroud.
There was some discussion a while back reference the duct work ahead of the radiator (http://www.shorttrackmodels.com/index.php?topic=899.0.html) on build that Lefturns75 is doing. What I have come to find out is that the air box between the radiator and front grill would have been a three sided box with the bottom open to allow dirt and mud to fall back to the racing surface, yet allow air to be drawn up from under the front of the car. I am still trying to hunt down some pictures of an East coast dirt modified of that era that would, perhaps, better demonstrate this.
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.....Its been nearly 3 years since I have done anything with this build. Since that time, I have learned some more building techniques and have completed 2 builds. I went back thru this thread a deleted text and pictures that are no longer relevant to this build to create a fresh starting point where I can begin to finish this build.
Judging by the traffic in my Fotki acct. reference this particular build, there is still plenty of interest or at least interest in viewing the pictures by others of this build which was a deciding factor to move it off of the back burner and complete it.
New for 2022 updates soon........
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Gitr done! Time to drop the checkers on it Brian!
Tom
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A lot has happened since December 29th 2019, approximately the date that I last did anything with this build. I was able to pick up, recently, where I had left off in regards to re working the body. One thing that I have decided to do with this build that I would never have attempted 2 years ago is some subtle weathering. I will be shooting the completed chassis with Testors Dulcote to knock down the shine and sparkle that is still present and make it more realistic looking.
(https://images46.fotki.com/v1682/photos/0/3714830/14343444/112422b-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/11-24-22b.html)
Completely redid the grill facia using Evergreen strips. I'm not quite done with the grill as there are still some apparent areas that still need some attention. Used the AMT/ERTL '77 Mustang II's grill as reference.
(https://images46.fotki.com/v1682/photos/0/3714830/14343444/112422e-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/outlaw-ford/78-mustang-ii-late-model/11-24-22e.html)
Built a new hood using styrene sheet and strips. Used the AMT/ERTL '77 Mustang II's hood as a template to make a longer hood for this build. Scale 3" over the fender line bubbled hood with a 4" scale hood scoop.
There are still some high spots on the fender tops as well as the hood that need smoothed out. I screwed up on my measurements for the hood scoop template and made a hole for the air cleaner that it doesn't need, so I will fill it in as the top of the air cleaner sits below the hood scoop. I had to make a hood scoop due to clearance issues with the air cleaner, oil breathers ,distributor cap and radiator.