Short Track Models
Short Track Forums => Early GN-USAC-IMCA-ARCA => Topic started by: MarkJ on May 10, 2020, 02:06:40 PM
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just finished . Used the new Laser decal system Micro Mark is selling. You can actually print white decals with a system less then 700 bucks. Cost you more if you buy it from Micro Mark. I got the printer at office depot and saved 100 bucks off their price. The ghost white toner is 329 bucks at Micro mark but you can get it for 300 plus shipping from u.s. cutter. Any way this is the Chevy Jim Paschal drove for 5 races in 1965 . this is the way the car looked at the Southern 500 that year. The model took 109 hours to complete. I did the decals cady style where you print he white sheet first and then you print the color sheet and you place the color decals over the white decals on the model. You can also try printing the color sheet over the white sheet and have one sheet but nobody has solved the register problem getting the sheets to line up just right.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZYdF9Kr6/65pas1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/q7N69jw2/65pas16.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8PbvWFsf/65pas15.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jqPPx3bX/65pas11.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XYHyHTfV/65pas14.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Hksytp7Z/65pas12.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/D0TW4FTc/65pas19.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/NftT58Gw/65pas13.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/v8rxF1r2/65pas20.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Man, that is outstanding, Mark.
Those decals are very well done and the details are killer !
I always liked Jim Paschal too.
Tom Friedkin was a very interesting man.
When I ordered my truck, it came from his Gulf States Toyota Distribution.
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Very, very nice. I do not remember this car, but then again I was with the USAF in remote Alaska Labor Day 1965.
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Thanks Jim and John. Yes, most people don't remember the Paschal/ Bill Thomas Chevy but it was actually the most competitive of the 65 Chevy's. But it usually dropped out or crashed . It did get a 3rd at Bristol. It only competed in 5 or 6 races. Most people model the Ray Fox / Lee Roy Yarbrough 65 Chevy. I guess cause it looks like the Junior Johnson 63 Chevy livery.
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That is absolutely beautiful!! Stunning!! Love the color. What paint did you use?
Rick :)
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I am glad you chose this one.
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Beautiful, but too expensive for me!
Rett
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That is absolutely beautiful!! Stunning!! Love the color. What paint did you use?
Rick :)
Rick , Its tamiya ts-49 bright red.
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WOW ! ! ! ! !
That is one SHARP build!!!!!
GREAT job!!!
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Beautiful build Mark, well done.
Bob
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The build looks absolutely great and way to go with the decals.....does being able to print in White open up some new possibilities for you?
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The build looks absolutely great and way to go with the decals.....does being able to print in White open up some new possibilities for you?
Yes Brian. I have had to shy away from building cars that have long white scripts on them, like this one has on the quarter panel. It would almost be impossible to print on a white decal sheet apply the decal to the model with a red background that probably wouldn't match the paint color and then trim around each tiny letter. Another car I have always wanted to do is Rex White's 63 Chevy he ran at the Daytona 500. It has two long white scripts on the quarter panel. Now if i can just find a kit.
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Stunning as always Mark. Great job on the decals and I always wonder why nobody did them before. Always liked this Jim and this car just never gets the attention like the other ones.
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Thanks guys. I forgot to post the wip link. There are better pictures of the interior in there.
http://cs.scaleautomag.com/sca/modeling_subjects/f/31/t/132235.aspx
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Here is what's left of the decal sheets.
(https://i.postimg.cc/90YCJ88d/65cdecals-2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tnJKg5HJ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/4NvmSw7F/65wdecals-2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vcBY1rvW)
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Heres what the model looks like after the white decals are put on.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7P5dMNZF/65jpwipgowhon4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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GREAT job on this build Mark! I dont remember this car, but you did some super work all the way around!
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Excellent build and great job with the decals also.
Bob
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Heres what the real car looked like
(https://i.postimg.cc/T2Vdd1dK/65jp11-2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/63sKwJFV/65jp9-2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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That white looks GOOD Mark! Was it a pain in the patootee to apply?
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Wow first time I seen this car in color and with the sponcer markings.
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That white looks GOOD Mark! Was it a pain in the patootee to apply?
Actually Gary, If you put on enough fixatent the decals go on very nicely. You have to use 2 light coats from 12 inches and wait ten minutes between coats. Then do a third coat from much closer where you can see that your putting it on wet so it will be smooth and glossy. If not the decals will look like they are orange peeled. not good. Some people say you dont need fixatent with laser decals because the toner is water proof, but dont listen to them. The decals with out fixatent are so thin they are almost impossible to work with . Also I changed fixatent . i now use "Preserve it" a product made by krylon . It drys super fast. That's why you have to get close with it on your final coat or it will orange peel badly. You just cant get so close that you make it run. Thats not good either. It's definitely a learning process with these laser decals.
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Thanks for the reply Mark. Man....sure seems like a big hassle eh? With all that work your's sure turned out GREAT!
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Thanks for the reply Mark. Man....sure seems like a big hassle eh? With all that work your's sure turned out GREAT!
Yes its a lot of work but better then trimming the ink jet decals on the model. Thats a real pain.
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Another nice one Mark! I always like to see the rare cars being built.
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I have to change what I said about fixatent above. I'm now using Future (Pledge floor finish) as the fixatent for the decals. i just put one coat with a large soft brush and it works a lot better then the spray can fixatent I mentioned above. I get a lot more consistent results with the future and the decals look better after they are installed then they do with the spray can fixatent.
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I love it!
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I have to change what I said about fixatent above. I'm now using Future (Pledge floor finish) as the fixatent for the decals. i just put one coat with a large soft brush and it works a lot better then the spray can fixatent I mentioned above. I get a lot more consistent results with the future and the decals look better after they are installed then they do with the spray can fixatent.
Great tip Mark....I'm going to try that soon.
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I have to change what I said about fixatent above. I'm now using Future (Pledge floor finish) as the fixatent for the decals. i just put one coat with a large soft brush and it works a lot better then the spray can fixatent I mentioned above. I get a lot more consistent results with the future and the decals look better after they are installed then they do with the spray can fixatent.
Great tip Mark....I'm going to try that soon.
Be careful. The future is hotter than you might think. I used it on some inkjet decals, and it melted the ink a little. It works great on laser decals. Laser decals are not ink. They are tiny bits of colored plastic melted together to make an image. That's why small images like contingency decals are not as crisp using an inexpensive laser printer like the one I use.
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Nice work!
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Be careful. The future is hotter than you might think. I used it on some inkjet decals, and it melted the ink a little. It works great on laser decals. Laser decals are not ink. They are tiny bits of colored plastic melted together to make an image. That's why small images like contingency decals are not as crisp using an inexpensive laser printer like the one I use.
Thanks Mark. I've got some old AMT decals I want to try and save. Do ya think the Future will work on them? They're pretty old.
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Be careful. The future is hotter than you might think. I used it on some inkjet decals, and it melted the ink a little. It works great on laser decals. Laser decals are not ink. They are tiny bits of colored plastic melted together to make an image. That's why small images like contingency decals are not as crisp using an inexpensive laser printer like the one I use.
Thanks Mark. I've got some old AMT decals I want to try and save. Do ya think the Future will work on them? They're pretty old.
Cut off a part of the decal sheet that has some lettering or something that doesn't really go on the model as a decal and try some future on it as a test. i'm guessing it would work fine. I'm sure they are not ink jet decals. Just one light coat should do the trick but give it a good 24 hours to cure.
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Cut off a part of the decal sheet that has some lettering or something that doesn't really go on the model as a decal and try some future on it as a test. i'm guessing it would work fine. I'm sure they are not ink jet decals. Just one light coat should do the trick but give it a good 24 hours to cure.
I forgot that I had a few bottles of the Microscale Liquid Decal Film. I will try this as it's made for that specific situation. Thanks for your info Mark. I'll let you know how well it works with 2K or Mr. clear.
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Fantastic build!
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I missed this one. Super cool! Love the old stockers. Lots of fun little details too! Thx for sharing it Mark.
Tom
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Thanks, Wake and Tom. I appreciate the feed back