Short Track Models
Construction Topics => Fab shop-under construction pics => Topic started by: MarkJ on July 18, 2020, 03:19:43 PM
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Using one kit for model and the other kit for the engine.
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Did some more work to the front fenders to get them closer to being presentable. Also where the roof meets the quarter panel on both sides there are huge casting seems that have to be fixed. I'm trying to get the body right so i will have a body guage to create the decals for the build. Usually I can just take the body right out of the box and start creating decals but not with this one.
(https://i.postimg.cc/XYzP8mtC/71brookwipcuothe1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Getting close to finishing the body. Still have to make the wheel openings larger. Remove the right door handle. Add the fuel filler and cap. Trim the nose filler to make it more flush. And a few other things I will notice later.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vBh6TPhP/71brwippuwion1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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i found side picture of the car im making so I took the picture and scaled it to match the model then I cut out the wheel opening s and taped it to the sides of the model so I could trace where the wheel openings were cut on the real car to have room for the racing tires.
(https://i.postimg.cc/76WsxJ1W/71brookwipusbogu1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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used an exacto knife and a saw to remove the excess plastic. just scribe around the line and after the cuts are made with the saw just bend over the plastic till it breaks and you can then remove it. saves a lot of time over just cutting with the exacto knife. even faster then a dremel that can get away from you and ruin the job.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0QgXLZFj/71brookwipfiwhop1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2qwxWdzN)
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got back to building the model today.
(https://i.postimg.cc/MZN2LB5P/69rbwipswhlido1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Started on the engine. I'm going to turn a 440 into a 340. the 440 was kitbashed from an amt 71 dodge kit. i just need to narrow the width of the engine by sanding an angle to the heads to make them sit up more and then cut the block in half, sand it to make it 1/16 of an inch shorter then the 440 block. this will make the engine I end up with look like a 340 instead of a 440. Well at least thats the plan. Plus the engine is solid black except for the aluminum intake manifold so that will make it look smaller as well. Im cutting the transmission off the hemi that comes in the daytona kit to put on the 440 which has an automatic on it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FHtxc7tR/71rbwip340study1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2VwvNjSR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9MfPV99x/71rbwip340study4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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top picture is a 440 bottom is 2 340's. you can see how much wider the 440 is but its not really that much longer. 1/16 inch on the model.
(https://i.postimg.cc/63KTwxGY/71brooks30.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GBMbJNKy)
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Got the first primer coat on, needs some block sanding for sure. Also got some more done on the engine.
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That is some mighty impressive scratchbuilding. Kind of wonder why a 340 instead of the big-block and why you didn't use the 340 out of the Duster kit rather than modify the big block. Just being nosey I guess. Keep those updates coming.
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Thanks, Rick. I did'nt use one out of a duster kit because I don't have a duster kit , but I did have the 71 charger kit with a 440 in it that I was'nt going to use in the 71 Charger. So I modified the 440 to look like a 340 for the 69 Charger daytona and I will use the hemi that came in the 69 charger daytona kit in the 71 Charger , which i hope to change into a 74 charger. If that all makes sense?
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(https://i.postimg.cc/PJHHh2VR/71rbwipsstroca1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Wonderful fab work. Did you also shorten the intake, is it from another kit or is it resin? Please keep us updated on progress.
Al
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Wonderful fab work. Did you also shorten the intake, is it from another kit or is it resin? Please keep us updated on progress.
Al
Al, I found the intake in my spare parts box. and did not have to shorten it. The engine I'm doing has an intake very similar to it so I used it. Also found that holley in the parts box as well. The engine that was used in the car was from the trans am series. It could run in the high 9000 r.p.m. range for 500 miles. Quite an accomplishment for a basically stock engine back in the early seventys.
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This is really looking good, some very nice fab work here. Keep us posted on updates.
Bob
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Thanks, Bob. Its been fun so far.
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....Your attention to detail and making sure everything is right is appreciated...always look forward to fallowing along with one of your builds.
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Thanks, Brian. I try to get it right but I have to do some fudging on this one, but only the true experts on this car will see where i messed up. It will basically be right.
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Hey, Mark was the original car race somewhere that had an engine size restriction, or was this the car owners choice?
I think the Mopar 340 is a much overlooked power plant. A guy in our town put a 340 in a ‘63 valiant convertible, and drag raced with it. Another local guy had a ‘67 R/T with a 426 Hemi in it and could only beat him by inches with the Hemi. Great Motor, and tough as a boot.
Olderndirt
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Hey, Mark was the original car race somewhere that had an engine size restriction, or was this the car owners choice?
I think the Mopar 340 is a much overlooked power plant. A guy in our town put a 340 in a ‘63 valiant convertible, and drag raced with it. Another local guy had a ‘67 R/T with a 426 Hemi in it and could only beat him by inches with the Hemi. Great Motor, and tough as a boot.
Olderndirt
Older, I dont want to give away too much, but this car by rule, had to run this engine block to be allowed in the race it ran in. The engine was built by a renowned drag racing engine builder. Thats all i'll give up about it for now. One more thing, it ran in the high 9000 r.p.m. range all day long and survived 500 miles.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/6p6kMsnq/71rbwipsrocafi1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Mark, I saw an article some years ago that featured an engine the Petty’s built to compete at a track with cubic inch limitations. I think it was a big block wedge engine, but I don’t remember the cubic inches. They actually ran it at another track that didn’t have restrictions and ran hard enough not to looks silly.
Olderndirt
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This one is not a petty car but will be revealed whenever I get it finished, Unless somebody who knows what I'm building spills the beans before then. Another clue, this car was only run one time.
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Me thinks I knows where this going......but will wait to see if I'm correct.......... :) ;)
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I'm sure you do, Ed. but I appreciate your patience. I may private message you for some info about the build if that is okay?
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Not sure I could answer, but ask away......one never knows.....
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Made a 1/25 scale picture of the underhood area of the model so I could make a pattern for the air cleaner. I will need to add a boot to it, to mate with the firewall.
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You had me wondering with your tease and now I am pretty sure I know. However, my lips are sealed.
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I appreciate that , Rick.
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Man, when you get to doing detail, you REALLY get to doing detail. I admired you patience and talent!
Rett
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Man, when you get to doing detail, you REALLY get to doing detail. I admired you patience and talent!
Rett
Thanks, Rett. I'm just trying to do a few things here and there. The front suspension has become a little challenging because of the shock placement through the upper a arm. I've got to figure out a different way to install the tire/ wheel assemblys and still get the stance and tire placement under the fender correct. I think I have a good idea for it, just have to see if it will work.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/cLqbXydG/71rbwipsftsual1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w7V2jrtw)
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...The steering and front suspension is incredible......care to elaborate more on it, I'd be interested to hear how it all came together.
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...The steering and front suspension is incredible......care to elaborate more on it, I'd be interested to hear how it all came together.
Thanks, Brian. Its just evergreen tubes ,rods, and sheet material formed into what I needed. As always its just close but not completely accurate, but better then just leaving the front suspension with nothing there at all. just a few more things have to be added under the hood and that area should be done. Then I can go back to the interior and work on the dash, seat and shifter. I'm not sure what to do about the fire extinguisher. I cant find any ref pictures showing one anywhere in the car but you know the car had to have one. I have one of those stand up extinguishers they put behind the seat in the early seventy's, but a picture I have of the car shows no such system installed there. So I have no clue what to do about that.
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It sure is good to see your Work again Mark. As always...your fab work is "A1".
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It sure is good to see your again Mark. As always...your fab work is "A1".
Thanks , Gary. I appreciate the kind words. Have you got anything going on right now? Your scratch work is always top of the chart. That camper you made was phenominal.
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Dang...I just saw that I left out "WORK" in the initial post...LOL...that's a true example of CRS for ya!!! I did go back and fix it....
Thank you for the complement Mark.....I am currently working on Tess Fields'(my cousin) 72 Chevelle Pro stock Short track car that she ran in 1986-1988...we think...LOL. She did fairly well in that car. Won a Trophy dash with the big boys. Which...is a record that still stands at Shasta Speedway,Redding Ca. The only chic to beat the boys in the Trophy Dash... I do have pics of the progress but need to load them in fotki. The build is about 2/3rds complete. Here's a few pics of the 1/1 car....
(https://images40.fotki.com/v1668/photos/7/2502057/16281380/photo-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/Gary-Davis/family-car-builds/tess-66-72-chevelle-1/ref-pics/tess-racecars0002.html)
(https://images40.fotki.com/v381/photos/7/2502057/16281380/photo-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/Gary-Davis/family-car-builds/tess-66-72-chevelle-1/ref-pics/tess-racecars0001.html)
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Gary ....
Looking forward to seeing that build....
Just seeing those 2 pics makes me wonder how far Kara Hendricks would have gone if she had not lost her life in a midget race many years ago...
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Dang...I just saw that I left out "WORK" in the initial post...LOL...that's a true example of CRS for ya!!! I did go back and fixed it....
Thank you for the complement Mark.....I am currently working on Tess Fields'(my cousin) 72 Chevelle Pro stock Short track car that she ran in 1986-1988...we think...LOL. She did fairly well in that car. Won a Trophy dash with the big boys. Which...is a record that still stands at Shasta Speedway,Redding Ca. The only chic to beat the boys in the Trophy Dash... I do have pics of the progress but need to load them in fotki. The build is about 2/3rds complete. Here's a few pics of the 1/1 car....
(https://images40.fotki.com/v1668/photos/7/2502057/16281380/photo-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/Gary-Davis/family-car-builds/tess-66-72-chevelle-1/ref-pics/tess-racecars0002.html)
(https://images40.fotki.com/v381/photos/7/2502057/16281380/photo-vi.jpg) (https://public.fotki.com/Gary-Davis/family-car-builds/tess-66-72-chevelle-1/ref-pics/tess-racecars0001.html)
Gary, I'll be looking forward to watching that build. Will you be wipping it here?
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Hey Ed...I hear you on that for sure.
Hey Mark....I've started it and it's on the back straight now. But I could post pics of what I've done to it thus far.
Thanks for the interest guys.
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Sounds good, Gary.
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Mark...you're killing me here!! LOL That Dash is waaaay cool. The tape on the steering wheel just knocks that dash board out'ta the park!!
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...beyond amazing,
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Thanks, Gary and Daytona. I'm thinking mpc made that steering wheel a little too small but I used it anyway. had to cut one of the braces off. the race car had 2 braces instead of 3.
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It(the steering wheel) looks good to me in the pics. Mark...what did you use for your gauge Bezels? They sure look good...
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It(the steering wheel) looks good to me in the pics. Mark...what did you use for your gauge Bezels? They sure look good...
Gary, the guage bezels are just styrene discs punched out with my hole puncher tool. punched to the same size as the guages that are decals i made from guage images i photo reduced from the internet. I dont use the decals like decals, just punch them out and glue them on top of the discs. I will later clear them with future. Thanks for the kind words.
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Thanks for the info Mark. Man...they look like they are recessed into a bezel. Very cool my friend. that seat and shifter are also...OFF THE CHART!!! ;D
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Thanks, Gary. Got some more done on the seat. Should be ready for paint and then the harnesses.
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Man mark...that seat looks great!
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Thanks , Gary. i finally found out where the fire extinguisher was on this car . They mounted it pretty close to where the passenger front seat would be mounted . Just a little back. Its one of those stand up kind thats usually behind the drivers seat. I found one from an old mpc mercury kit I can use.
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This is getting better every post. As always...great fab work Mark!!
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Got the seat finished and added a fuel cell. Almost forgot to do it. That would have looked dumb.
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That engine really looks good Mark!
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That engine really looks good Mark!
Thanks, Gary. Its a snug fit but it actually does fit in the engine compartment and its a small block. Hoping to paint the chassis today with rattle can so i can go ahead and finish the chassis. Then I can paint the body and eventually decal it after its all put together. i'm hoping to keep it where I can remove the body from the chassis when its done.
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Been sweating the weather for the last week but now that its finally past hope to have some more updates. Hoping to install the engine in the chassis and then i can concentrate on painting the body. I think I have found enough tamiya cans to get the job done. had some less then hoped for results from rustoleum 2 in 1 rattle can on the chassis so I didnt want to take the chance of using it on the body where I might have had to strip in like I did for the 57 ford I did a while back.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/8PFPxshj/71rbwipsfipach1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YqJq7k38/71rbwipsfipach2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gct2M3LC/71rbwipsfipach3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hGnDJrNd/71rbwipsfipach4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zGKDXM2N/71rbwipsfipach5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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OH YEA.....That is looking GREAT Mark!! What red did you use? It sure pops!
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Totally impressive. You have done some beautiful work on this interior.
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Thanks guys. I see I need to look at that back shock in the last picture and see whats going on with it. Something aint right. Gary the red is the rustoleum 2in 1 apple red gloss spray bomb for plastic or anything else for that matter. Its almost an exact match for testors guards red bottle paint
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Got one of the colors on the car. messed up in a couple of places and will try to brush touch it. started working on the window net. Have some pictures of it to post later.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/266fxqzk/71rbwipswinedo1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3RcQfKRg/71rbwipswinedo2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2yLRPPbg/71rbwipswinedo3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bvLhb0fV/71rbwipswinedo4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Great fab work on everything. What did you use for the roll bar padding?
Al
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Thanks Al. i used electric tape narrowed width wise so when you wrap it it just meets . Then I wrapped that with 1/16 inch graphic tape to keep it from coming apart . The electric tape wants tp unwrap itself if nothing is done to stop it. I then hit it with some semigloss black acryl paint from the bottle.
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That net jig you made is waaaay kool Mark!!
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Finished all the painting on the body so should not be too much longer. Just need to do a little bmf. Install the glass and fit the body to the chassis and install the tire assemblys. Then install the rear bumper and fairings and then finally decal and add the hood and trunk pins. Also need to add the backglass straps and then finally future and she should be done.
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All the decals are done except the front fenders which are painstaking to apply because they are cady style and there are a lot of them. also have 3 on the engine that need to be applied. After that i need to do the hood and trunk pins and the back glass straps. Those items always get knocked off if i do them before the decalling. the final step is the pledge floor finish to seal the decals and create a better final finish. Pretty happy so far with the results.
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Looking forward to the completed build....
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Thanks , Ed. I'm hoping to finish the model today and possibly take the final photos tomorrow.
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I'm with you ED....Looking forward to the finished Pics of this bad boy...
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Thanks Gary , I'm finally done. Checked off my checklist and the only thing left is pledge floor finish. Will do that tomorrow afternoon and maybe do the photos Sunday. Still having some issues with this new decal system. Its hard to get the fixative just right on the finished sheets. If you use testors 1261 like i did on the ink jet decals I used to make, its too hot and makes the ink wash out on the decals . especially the contengencies. I'm using Krylon "Preserve It". Its hard to get the right distance so that it goes on smooth but doesnt run. The problem is it drys very fast and if your too far away it goes on very rough like sandpaper. You have to put it on thick or the decals come apart like as if they were really old decals. But if you get too close to get a smooth finish it can run. there is an optimal way to use this product but I haven't quite figured it out yet.
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Man Mark...that sounds like a pain in the pa'tootie...that new decal system. Is that ink jet or laser?
I've been using The Testors 9200 Decal bonder but....I just did a search and it's not Available.. ANYWHERE! So...i guess I better use what I have very sparingly.
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Man Mark...that sounds like a pain in the pa'tootie...that new decal system. Is that ink jet or laser?
I've been using The Testors 9200 Decal bonder but....I just did a search and it's not Available.. ANYWHERE! So...i guess I better use what I have very sparingly.
Gary, Its the new laser system that micro mark is pushing. You have to get a laser printer and a ghost white toner cartridge. Its nice to finally be able to print white decals but its a lot of work to get it done. I think it was really designed for t-shirt makers not model car makers with fine print that has to be done, especially on 1/25 scale contengencies.. Well i'm stuck with it now and have to make due.
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It sounds like once you get the your system with that printer locked in...you'll be good to go. I found another type of Decal bonder (Microscale Liquid decal film)you might be interested in....if you haven't tried it yet. Here's a link to what I found. https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/micro-liquid-decal-film/MIC00000012/product.php?micr=791
I have a few bottles of it and it works good on saving old decals. I'm thinking it might work in you situation. If it don't craze the older decals...it shouldn't craze your new stuff. But..we never know untill we try it.
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Thanks, Gary. I have a bottle of that some where. Ive never thought to use it on an entire sheet but maybe that might be what i need to solve my issues. It says you can brush it on and wait 20 minutes and then you can apply the decals. If I can find that bottle I might just print out a test sheet and see how it works. Thanks again.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/3R3J4G1t/69rb7.jpg) (https://postimages.org/) More in the finished model threads
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Man Mark...this really looks good! I want to build the same car one day.
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Yeppers....I was right.....
Knew this was the one you were building..,,once you mentioned the small block engine and the fact it was the last Daytona to ever race...
Didn't Bill France, Sr, outright ban the Daytonas and Superbirds when this car ran competively with the big block cars?
Just checked out the pics in the other post.....OUSTANDING JOB on this killer build!!!!!!!!
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Man Mark...this really looks good! I want to build the same car one day.
Looking forward to your build , Gary.
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Yeppers....I was right.....
Knew this was the one you were building..,,once you mentioned the small block engine and the fact it was the last Daytona to ever race...
Didn't Bill France, Sr, outright ban the Daytonas and Superbirds when this car ran competively with the big block cars?
Just checked out the pics in the other post.....OUSTANDING JOB on this killer build!!!!!!!!
Yes, Ed. i think in my research for this build, I came across that Bill Sr. did completely outlaw the winged cars as well as the Talladega and the Mecury that looked pretty much like it. If one of the Ford guys had wanted to race a Talladega or that Merc at the 71 Daytona 500, they would have had to come up with a 305 motor to do it but there were no takers. Thanks for the props on the build , I really appreciate it.
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The car I want to build is the #22 but...it's Bobby Allisons' car. I have the power slide decal sheet for both those cars. Seeing your outstanding build makes me want to do it right now.
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The car I want to build is the #22 but...it's Bobby Allisons' car. I have the power slide decal sheet for both those cars. Seeing your outstanding build makes me want to do it right now.
Thats great , Gary. You will have a much better decal sheet to do yours with . I think it has foil numbers and letters, which I could not do on my sheets. If you want a better over all look. Open up the wheel openings and flair the fenders. If you leave them stock they are way too small and hides alot of the tires.
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Hey Mark... Thanks for the heads up on the wheel wells. I will definitely do that when I get there. The decal sheet does have gold foil #'s. It's a very good sheet just looking at it. One thing about doing your own decals though..... is that YOU did them, and they look good.
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Hey Mark... Thanks for the heads up on the wheel wells. I will definitely do that when I get there. The decal sheet does have gold foil #'s. It's a very good sheet just looking at it. One thing about doing your own decals though..... is that YOU did them, and they look good.
Here are the leftover decals. I really need to find a good fixatent and i was thinking of using future which is pledge floor finish. It is water proof so i dont know why it wouldnt work. maybe nobody else has thought about using it. You can put it on with a brush and it is smooth and glossy when it drys.
(https://i.postimg.cc/XJqh7qWh/71rbwipsleovde1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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That sounds like something to try Mark. I don't think I'd put it on to thick though. It might separate the decal film from the backing paper. You could use those left over Decals in your post to experiment on. I'd be interested on the outcome if you do the experiment. Something to think about doing for sure.
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That sounds like something to try Mark. I don't think I'd put it on to thick though. It might separate the decal film from the backing paper. You could use those left over Decals in your post to experiment on. I'd be interested on the outcome if you do the experiment. Something to think about doing for sure.
The ones left over already have a fixatent on them . i would like to do a raw sheet with no fixatent to see if the future would be viable. I would just use one thin coat like I do when I finish a model and want to clear it. I'll let you know what I find out.
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You did a great job with this build ...and I enjoy reading the back stories that you provide with your builds, learn something every time :)
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You did a great job with this build ...and I enjoy reading the back stories that you provide with your builds, learn something every time :)
Thanks, Brian. i purposely find cars that have good back stories to give me the inspiration to finish the build and then share the back story. Not always, but most of the time. Thanks again.
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I found a sheet i messed up from the last model that i had not put fixatent on yet and tried future as a fixatent. It works good if you follow some rules. first when you dunk the decal in the water wait a couple of minutes till it starts uncurling before trying to remove the decal from the sheet. Also you should not try to uncurl the decal back to flat because it might crack the decal. just slide it off a little curled and once its on the model with some decal setting solution it is safe to move it into place. These laser decals are not ink . They are tiny bits of plastic melted together and that is why they can crack when still on the sheet and even on the model if they are forced to hard to move. I dont feel like I can sell these because im afraid I'm asking too much from the buyer to follow these rules to have a good outcome with the decals.