Short Track Models
Construction Topics => Fab shop-under construction pics => Topic started by: MarkJ on November 21, 2017, 01:54:13 PM
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The kit:
(https://s6.postimg.cc/647paoowx/54hwipbosast1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Sanded mold lines removed fender skirts and added gas cap door
(https://s6.postimg.cc/51xis5dtd/54hwipbosast2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The only wheels in this kit are the hubcaps made on to the wheels. I wanted to use the kit tires so I had to transform the wheels into stock steel wheels without hubcaps. The next pictures show that transformation.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/kneuc4cwx/54hwipbosast3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/lcxmohsw1/54hwipbosast4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/88s2bs5z5/54hwipbosast5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/8ljghyvyp/54hwipbosast6.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/m2gf0ulpt/54hwipbosast7.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I found the steel wheels in my spare parts box. With a little trimming they fit the backs of the hub cap wheels perfectly and I am able to use the nice hollow tires that come in the kit. You'd think a kit as expensive as this one is, would have a different option for the wheels, other than just the stock hub caps. I believe the wheels I found, came from the 40 ford standard kit, but I'm not sure.
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nice work and a great tip!Thanks!
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Good start, Mark, I'll be watching as I have the earlier racecar Hudson kit. I can see why you would go to that effort to use the tires. They are cool early racing tires.
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Got the tire wheel assemblies almost finished. just need to glue on a tube with a hole on the inside so they can be mounted on the axles. Set the body with tires in place to see how it will kinda look. The wheels will be black on the finished model so I think that will help the overall look. This car had all the chrome on it so I will be doing a lot of bare metal foil.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/mlliah0dd/54hwiptiwhfi1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/hmxzvxoup/54hwiptiwhfi2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Looking like an interesting project Mark. It will be interesting to watch this project move along.
Bob
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Ok, guys. This has never happened to me before. I guess i'm getting too old. I'm going to have to put this project on hold for a while. It seems that I have purchased the wrong kit. I did not realize that Hudson had two 2 doors in 1954. And of course I bought the wrong one. I should have bought the club coupe instead of this one. Luckily I figured it out before I got too far along in the project. The decals I already made will still work on the club coupe. I just need to find one. Probably pick one up in the spring at the ipms show in Stafford. No bigee. I will just move on to the next project.
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LOL, thought I was the only one who did that sort of stuff!!!
Rett
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The Herb Thomas car was indeed a club coupe. With your skills, whatever you end up doing with the sedan one day will be cool!
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2uFJtvrxAyY5G.jpg)
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The Herb Thomas car was indeed a club coupe. With your skills, whatever you end up doing with the sedan one day will be cool!
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2uFJtvrxAyY5G.jpg)
Probably just make it a street version someday. I don't think anyone raced this type of Hudson.
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Ok guys, I finally purchased the correct kit and will be resuming the wip in a few days.
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I finally got the right kit to finish this build.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/r46naqd6p/54herbwipstovag1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The raw body is very rough so it will have to be block sanded before it can even be primed.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/8om6dbrch/54herbwipstovag3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/4fhgb5gdd/54herbwipstovag2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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painted the body. Using testors enamel out of the small bottles with an airbrush.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/m6gpu2t8h/54herbwipspabogr1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Got the engine built.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/68803ym5t/54herbwipspabogr2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/ve8yasfq9/54herbwipspabogr3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/clx377bm9/54herbwipspabogr4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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hey mark,glad to see you're doing another old school build(retroeguy from randys nascar site)
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Thanks, Oldgi. I'm really liking how this kit is going together. It's a well engineered kit as far as how the parts fit together. The instructions are a little challenging though, but I think I can figure them out. This car doesn't even have a roll bar, so basically I will be building a street car, and adding decals. No modifications will be necessary except for eliminating the muffler from the exhaust system. At least that's what it seems from the limited ref pictures I have of the real car.
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Got the frame done.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/qhrzx000h/54herbwipsfifrpi1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
MOVE ON TO PAGE 2 >>>>>
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Well, i'm going to be held up a couple of days on the build. I tried to use a molotow chrome pen for the body chrome, but found that I was going to have to mask every little piece of chrome before I could do it, and the use of the pen is very unpredictable. Sometimes the liquid won't come out of the pen at all, and then other times it comes out too freely, making a mess. Also the chrome takes a long time to dry and if you touch it while its wet it dulls terribly. I still think it will be a good product for touching up chrome pieces like bumpers if they need touching up.
I think it will be better just to use bmf on this model. Its a lot of work but I can control the quality better than with the pen. The only trouble is, when I got my bmf scraps out, I realized I didn't have enough to do this model, so I ordered some from Micro Mark, and they said it would take about a week to get to me. I can go ahead and finish the frame and interior but the actual completion will be held up for a while. There is an article in Scale Auto where they remove the ink from a pen and spray it with an airbrush. the author thought it worked better than AlcladII but I wasn't convinced. And those pens aren't cheap. Oh well, just my opinion.
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Good observations Mark. I've wondered about the pen on larger surfaces. I'm using one on the interior trim of my Batmobile. After many weeks, it finally set to where it wont turn dull when touched. Just don't be in a hurry. I saw one article where someone masked the side trim on a hudson and shot it with alclad, but I don't think it would be practical for window trim. Looking forward to seeing some paint on this one. Tb
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Good observations Mark. I've wondered about the pen on larger surfaces. I'm using one on the interior trim of my Batmobile. After many weeks, it finally set to where it wont turn dull when touched. Just don't be in a hurry. I saw one article where someone masked the side trim on a hudson and shot it with alclad, but I don't think it would be practical for window trim. Looking forward to seeing some paint on this one. Tb
Tom, The body is already painted. If you look closely you will see some light reflections in the roof.
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You are on the right path Mark. Those Molotow pens have their place and generally they are good for small little repairs where some work had to be done where the chrome was removed from the tree, similar things with the kit chrome or small interior or engine details. They are way expensive and shooting Alclad (if you know how) will provide better results on larger pieces. Shooting Molotow out of an air-brush is a fool's errand in my opinion. No model car is worth that cost and the results are not better than well-shot Alclad. And of course, pain as it is to work with sometimes, BMF is tried and tested for lots of things. A little tip, keep your BMF in the refrigerator and it will remain "like new" indefinitely.
Thanks , David, for that tip of keeping the BMF in the fridge. It definitely doesn't look as good after it gets some age on it.
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By the way, air brushing the small bottle Testors is a breeze and always produces a nice finish. I cut mine at 2/1 (paint/thinner) and I use the cheap lacquer thinner. Just light coats letting the color and shine slowly build up makes for some good finishes. IN short, I can "dig it" on your paint choice for this build! :D
Thanks, again for another tip, David. I will have to try the 2/1 ratio on my next one. I did 50/50 on this one and wasn't real happy with the results, and the air brush actually spit a little bit here and there, which was a bummer.
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308 c.i. flathead 6.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/y521cruyp/54herbwipsfienpa1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/l0wh03xs1/54herbwipsfienpa2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/ldnv6a0m9/54herbwipsfienpa3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The interior is a pure guess based on only 3 reference pictures of the outside of the car. none of the inside.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/6ugq4vump/54herbwipsfienpa4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/ezys313g1/54herbwipsfienpa5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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I love this era of racing, and automobile history. You don’t have to be a car genius to tell what make, and or model, these cars are. The engine is very well done. I’m excited about this build. I am trying to be patient, but it’s not my best thing.
Olderndirt
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Supertex, tell me how you build the entire engine THEN do all that detail painting AND main color? I can do part of it that way but not the entire engine. If I tried that it would look like it had been dipped in several different colors of paint. The plus side of this build is you won't have to scratch build a GM Steering box for it!
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Thanks, Older, George, and David. I just use a big brush for the red and a little brush for the flat black and the black.
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If that's how it's done, your paint by number stuff must look like a Rembrandt. I have brushes that range from one hair to the size of a house paint brush and I can't do that but I wish I could. Carry on Pablo, you got this.
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Thanks, David and George. I tried painting the parts first and then assembling them and ended up with a glue bomb mess. That's why I paint them after their built and primed. I use Acryl paint too, which dries fast and is easy water, soap clean up for the brushes. David , I really want to make the enamel the way I go for bodies , I just have to stick with it till I figure it out. I like that with the small bottles I can mix just about any color I want. I love Tamiya rattle cans but their expensive and you have to use the colors they make. Take this build for instance, The real car is a light gray with a slight blue tint to it. You're never going to find that in a rattle can. But you can mix white, black and blue bottles and get pretty close.
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I'm like David, cut off sprue, prep, paint, and assemble. I've tried re-painting a glue bomb motor and it just doesn't come out good for me. Guess that's what makes the world go around and around, everyone has their way that works for them. Anyway, this Hudson is coming along nicely. I'm enjoying watching it come together..
Rett
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I'm like David, cut off sprue, prep, paint, and assemble. I've tried re-painting a glue bomb motor and it just doesn't come out good for me. Guess that's what makes the world go around and around, everyone has their way that works for them. Anyway, this Hudson is coming along nicely. I'm enjoying watching it come together..
Rett
Thanks Rett. I appreciate the feedback.
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I'm kind of caught up with the chassis, and interior, so I decided to try and polish the body. It has only been 6 days since I painted it, so I didn't know if it was fully dry enough to polish the enamel finish. To my surprise it polished out very well. I started with 3600 paper, and worked my way to 12000. If you look at the photo with the exacto knife, next to the model, you can see the reflection of the knife in the door. Now I just need to wait for the BMF to get here.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/egki2bupt/54herbwipspooubo1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/6b2g45jbl/54herbwipspooubo2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/qv7a2nei9/54herbwipspooubo4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/7dcmmouf5/54herbwipspooubo3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/urklynexd/54herbwipspooubo5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/g8dgx7yn5/54herbwipspooubo6.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Having a lot of trouble with this one. The bmf will not stick very well to the body. I don't know if its the paint I used or if I got bad bmf. When I went to glue the glass in, it fits so tight in the openings that it pushed the bmf loose and made a huge mess. now I'm going to have to try and redo the bmf after the glass is in place. The bmf packaging looks brand new and the bmf itself looks fresh and new but it just doesn't stick well to the body and the molotow chrome pens don't work worth a flip either. This is becoming one of those builds I wish I had never started and I haven't even got to the decals yet, which are going to have to be cut very close to their edges and the excess decal material removed from the body. This one may never get finished.
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There have been times I had BMF that just wouldn't stick and I just could not do anything with it. I don't know why, the stuff was new but sometimes it is just not consistent. I have bought them in pairs and one would be great and the other I would end up throwing out. I don't know the reason for this but grab another sheet go forward young man. If you do end up sticking it back in the box, don't sweat it, I have many of those. Step back, take a breath and say a few choice words and gloo on Tex.
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Thanks, George and David. Now that I've slept on it, I'm ready to try and figure something out, even if it means painting the chrome with testors chrome enamel. I'm starting to think that maybe the enamel is still gassing out and that's why the bmf is not sticking well. I didn't use any petroleum products in the polishing process, just water and those sanding squares that come in packages ranging from 1500 grit to 12000 grit. I'm going to scrape down one of the moldings, down to bare plastic, and see if that helps.
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Try some on a junk body Mark.
Tb
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Thanks, Tom and David but I have found out the problem. Micro mark sent me some bad bmf. I dug through my supplies a little deeper and found some old bmf I had. It says on it "new improved chrome" the stuff they sent me is called "ultra bright chrome". Even though the package looks new, I bet its way past its shelf life. That's the last time I buy anything from micro mark. I tried the old stuff I had and it works perfectly. Now I just need to go back and replace the chrome that refused to stick.
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I have a sheet of that Ultra stuff myself and never use it. It will not stick and just looks bad. As far as getting pretty good BMF I have had good luck with Sprue Brothers. There is really not anyplace local I can get supplies so I usually order on line. My evergreen came today so I can get back to my 63 Fairlane.
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Thanks guys. I think the main thing I need to do is stay away from cars with chrome. Just like polishing, I hate installing bmf.
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(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JVST1dxAyY5G.gif)
Thanks , David. I needed a good laugh. Put the decals on, didn't like them, so now I'm going to redo all 3 sheets.
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(https://s26.postimg.cc/77gqz819l/images.jpg)
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(https://s26.postimg.cc/77gqz819l/images.jpg)
Thanks, George. Another good belly laugh for me. Actually i'm good about redoing the decals. It will be a lot less trimming for me after I redo them.
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I finally got the edited decals on the model. With a little trimming tomorrow, I will be able to put the future floor finish on, and call this one done. I will post the finished pictures in the early GN-USAC-IMCA- ARCA forum.
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Finished pictures are where I stated above, if interested.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/ghwn4mufl/54herb1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)