Short Track Models
Construction Topics => Fab shop-under construction pics => Topic started by: MarkJ on July 10, 2018, 04:01:57 PM
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Here are the kits.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/do0dtvexd/65fredbox1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/ny2st3x35/65fredbox2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I'll use the first kit for the car and the second kit for the engine. I finished up the decals today and got them printed on sheets.
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(https://s6.postimg.cc/v6ar77nep/65fredwipspmoch1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/tehsca96p/65fredwipspmoch2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/y0dwknhv5/65fredwipspmoch3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/tehscagwh/65fredwipspmoch4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/fktfn8w0x/65fredwipspmoch5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Looking good Mark. I like your wheel well opening technique.
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The 65 Chevelle SS, not necessarily the ZL-1, is my holy grail of 1:1 cars. Not only was it a sweet street machine it also transformed into many nasty Saturday Night fighters. Looking forward to what you do with this one.
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How did you scribe the wheel well lines? I always have trouble trying to do that...
Rett
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How did you scribe the wheel well lines? I always have trouble trying to do that...
Rett
Thanks guys. Rett first I made a pattern from a piece of paper plate and went around it with a sharpie, then I scribed it with the back side of a #11 exacto knife, and then followed that with my scribing tool. I used a saw to cut up to the scribed line and then a needle nose plyers to bend the plastic at the scribed line until it separated and then you just twist and remove. I made the openings a little too big so I will have to go back and fix them
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How did you scribe the wheel well lines? I always have trouble trying to do that...
Rett
Thanks guys. Rett first I made a pattern from a piece of paper plate and went around it with a sharpie, then I scribed it with the back side of a #11 exacto knife, and then followed that with my scribing tool. I used a saw to cut up to the scribed line and then a needle nose plyers to bend the plastic at the scribed line until it separated and then you just twist and remove. I made the openings a little too big so I will have to go back and fix them
Sorta thought that was what you would say. I just have trouble scribbing like that. Lately I've just marked it out, then using a large dremel drum, sand it out. Guess we've all go our ways. Anyway, Chevelle looks good to me! Waiting patiently for the end product...
Rett
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Is this one going to be a replica or a fantasy. If replica I could suggest the great Jack Ingram - :)
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Is this one going to be a replica or a fantasy. If replica I could suggest the great Jack Ingram - :)
Replica, or as close as I can get it to one.
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Got some more work done on the wheel openings.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/n7kn0t69d/65fredwipsfiwhop1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/vd2oyz9xt/65fredwipsfiwhop2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/l309zpp75/65fredwipsfiwhop3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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(https://s6.postimg.cc/vpu355kht/65fredwipsfiwhop4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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That is just about the last operation I do during a build. Interesting how we all do things different. I will watch and see how you do this one as I have a couple of these kits stacked around. It will give me a good idea if I want to retain the kit chassis or match it to something else but you have seen the nutsy ways I do things. I still want to do one of these over a Tri-Five Chassis.
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That is just about the last operation I do during a build. Interesting how we all do things different. I will watch and see how you do this one as I have a couple of these kits stacked around. It will give me a good idea if I want to retain the kit chassis or match it to something else but you have seen the nutsy ways I do things. I still want to do one of these over a Tri-Five Chassis.
George, I'm just trying to do this the easiest way possible. I could never make one of those fabulous scratch built chassis you do. It would never fit to the body If I did one.
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MarkJ, what do you use to fill in the area of the wheel openings on the body?
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MarkJ, what do you use to fill in the area of the wheel openings on the body?
Ricky, if I had not messed up, I would not have had to use anything to fill the mistakes. But what you see in the pictures above is pieces of sheet styrene and Tamiya white putty.
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Still trying to get the body right. Will have to remove the front inner fenders and add the lower valence panel for the grille ahead of time. Also the rear valance panel and the taillight panel which appears to be black in the photos.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/5nofhr55t/65fredwipssafepu1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/yq2pkkz5d/65fredwipssafepu2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
MOVE ON TO PAGE 2 >>>>
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Wanted to get a feel for what it will look like.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/6zxeb3p7l/65fredwipsmup1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/sz3sybt75/65fredwipsmup2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/tomlaom0x/65fredwipsmup3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/f5fg9a8bl/65fredwipsmup4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/4iln3ud0x/65fredwipsmup5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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This is looking real good Mark.
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Coming along real nicely.....
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Thanks, Gary and Ed. Its been a lot of fun so far and it wont need hardly any B.M.F. Thank goodness.
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Looks very nice so far, Mark!!! Looking forward to seeing more. I'm loving the chrome wheels a lot.
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Looks very nice so far, Mark!!! Looking forward to seeing more. I'm loving the chrome wheels a lot.
Thanks Greg, I took a molotow chrome pen apart and put some in my airbrush and shot them with it. I made sure to let them dry a couple of days before I handled them. I did not prime them because I believe that would have dulled the finished product. Since it's ink I think it will adhere pretty good to the raw plastic. I will need to paint the center hubs black, with a brush, but will do that after the tires are installed to the car.
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I did not have a small block Chevy for this build because the Chevelle kit comes with a 396. I bought a 70 1/2 Camaro Z28 kit, so I could rob the engine from it. If I ever do the camaro, Ill just put the big block in it, or if I need a big block for another nascar build, I can use it for that. I have a small block chevy from a 57 chevy truck kit, but I don't think that would have passed for one that would be in this Chevelle. And I really didn't want to cannibalize the chevy truck kit.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/fl9k4tzmp/65fredwipsgoenbu1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Looking forward to further updates. I did the same engine trick with a '70 Impala H/Stock drag car and will hopefully finish it some day along with the big-block A/MP or B/G Camaro.
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Thanks, Rick. Well, I'm going to try to turn the kit rear axle into a quick change. It's not going to be exact, but you will be able to tell that it is more a quick change, than a stock rear axle. I don't even know if this car had a quick change, but chances are, from the info I have received from a source that is very knowledgeable about these cars, that it probably did. Also began scratching a set of headers. Again I have know idea what they looked like, I'm just trying to make them fit and look like headers.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/b1p1ujya9/65fredwipsstreax1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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(https://s6.postimg.cc/crm11uhup/65fredwipsfireax1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/w9gohrzcx/65fredwipsfireax2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/kkcottg41/65fredwipsfireax3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Nice looking quick change. Have you thought of casting it and selling it?
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Nice looking quick change. Have you thought of casting it and selling it?
Thanks, Rick. No its really not accurate enough to cast and sell. its too elongated front to rear. I think a place called big donkey sells them and they look pretty accurate.
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Thanks, David. But its mainly because I'm too cheap, and I hate to order extra parts for a build, if I can some what, get away with it.
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Yeah, What David said X2!
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Me, I'm just amazed at how talented everyone here is! No criticizing from this little corner.....
It's a wonder I haven't ruined my computer keyboard, with all the drooling I do over all the fine builds posted here, let alone the WIP's!
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Yes, this is a fine place to post and to look at fine finished builds. I'm finding that I come here more then any other forum.
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Mark, this build is coming along nicely. Nice job on the quick change rear.
I can't wait to see the finished build.
Bob
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Thanks, Bob. I'm having a couple issues with painting the body but hopefully i'll get it figured out.
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Painted the silver yesterday. Used testors enamel out of the small bottle. Used lacquer thinner. Pretty happy with the results. I had first shot it with duplicolor from the rattle can but it ended up showing every sand scratch there was on the car. So I reprimed it and shot it with the enamel. I will wait a week before I shoot the orange. I will have to mix the orange to match the orange on the decal sheet I made. I don't know if I will try to polish the silver. I have heard that polishing enamel metallics is not a good idea.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/elzsmh07l/65fredwipspabosi1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Do not polish!!!! Fine the way it is!
Rett
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Sounds good guys. I hate to polish.
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Really coming along nicely, Mark.
Thanks for all the effort you put in to keep us posted on your builds.
Good stuff !!
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Thanks, Jim. I like to keep a record of my builds, so hopefully I can go back some day, if I forgot how I did something. unfortunately, I lost a lot of wips at Randy Ayers.
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Got some more work on the engine done. Test fitting it, making a 4 bladed fan, fixing the air cleaner, adding some breathers to the valve covers, and giving the alternator a bracket so it doesn't have to stand out in space defying gravity.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/nuawsxrmp/65fredwipsfiaicl1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/nhjimr1n5/65fredwipsfiaicl2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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(https://s6.postimg.cc/qoe26dedd/65fredwipsfiaicl6.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Thanks, David. I'm trying not to get too ridiculous, like I did with the Junior Johnson 63 Chevy. I had some pretty good reference pictures with that build, pictures of the actual car, but luckily I only have good advice and pictures that were probably like what this car had, to go by. So that will keep the details to the minimum, which I'm glad about.
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Engine is finished, except for wiring and alcladIIing the air cleaner. Started on the interior tub. I will remove the rest of the back seat, and then install a sheet of styrene, on the two tubes, that will extend from where the front of the rear seat was, to the base of the back glass. Also started on the frame.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/nmnqfz5dd/65fredwipsstintu1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/eevhz8o0h/65fredwipsstintu3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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GO ON TO PAGE 4 >>>>>
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Nice truck arms .....don't think I have ever seen any that didn't come from a kit somewhere.
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(https://s6.postimg.cc/403kf5ou9/65fredwipsadresh1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s6.postimg.cc/hh0iy0rg1/65fredwipsadresh2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Well I have hit a major bump in the road. I masked the silver with Tamiya tape to shoot the orange and when I pulled it off it totally ruined the silver wherever the tape touched it. I need to find a tape that adheres well but does not kill the enamel paint under it. Suggestions?
(https://s6.postimg.cc/lal8z0sxt/65chevmaskingprob1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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I had a similar paint scheme on my 66 Nova project. I used Tamiya Gloss Aluminum and Italian red. I painted the silver then waited a few days and taped it off being careful to tape only the edge. Use a plastic bag to cover the broad parts of the hood and trunk. The Tamiya paint did not lift when I removed the tape.
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Thanks guys. I think clearing the silver, before masking, will be what I will have to do, to solve the problem.
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I'm a newb so I don't know how to fix your problem but I used the Testor's Metallic silver in the tiny bottle on a camero I build and it looked great... but, that paint never dried and I ended up messing it up too. I am going to respray the same paint on that body again soon and then set aside for about 6 months to cure, but I am not ever using enamel on anything else after that.
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Hey Mark, will you just sand the affected areas or will you strip the entire car?
Well David, Don't tell anybody, but I'm going to try and sand, reprime, and shoot again. Im going to prime with model masters acryl white primer. I'm hoping it wont be hot enough to make the enamel underneath craze. I will then shoot the orange first, let it cure a week, then clear the orange, let it cure, and then finally mask the orange, and shoot the silver. That way I wont have to put any masking tape on the silver. The one thing I hate more than polishing is stripping paint.
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Heck yes, David. That looks like it worked out just fine. Gives me hope for my project.
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(https://s6.postimg.cc/i4eleqmoh/65fredwipscafoen1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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MOVE ON TO PAGE 5 >>>>>>>>
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It looks more orange in person, but I still don't think I got it orange enough, but I based it on the decal backgrounds, and I'm not going to reprint them. There are a lot more bars to add to the cage but this is a start.
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Lotsa nice fab work goin' on here - waiting to see the finished product!
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(https://s6.postimg.cc/p6ed6pwep/65fredwipsrocafi1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Need to clean up the cage a little, with some putty, and add some shocks, to the front suspension. I had to change up the top bars on the cage at the belt line because it would not fit the body. Just a little too wide.
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Thanks, David and Bob. Its slowly starting to come together. I left the front suspension stock except for how the shock set up will be.
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(https://s6.postimg.cc/h3ck7heo1/65fredwipsadsebo1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Man...I'm with you David! All that fab work is great. That cage is really good....
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Thanks, David and Gary. Tomorrow we are suppose to get a cold front in here, which is really strange for southest texas in august. Mind you, it will still be close to 100 degrees, but the humidity is suppose to drop a lot, so I will take that opportunity to shoot the silver for hopefully, the last time.
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(https://s6.postimg.cc/f17xz65rl/65fredwipsfidrse2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Nice set of belts Mark. Did you fab the buckles? (probably a mute question...LOL)
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Thanks , David and Gary. Yes on the fabbed buckles. I put the tape belts on the seats first, and then make and add each buckle piece or tensioner , one by one, and then I paint them with a tooth pick.
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Man Mark...you just blow me away with your talent and building skills. Those buckles could pass as photoetch pieces. Great job.....
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Thanks, Gary. They are not really that accurate but they have the look of it from a distance. Are you working on something at the moment? I haven't found any of your wips lately at the usual places.
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Right now Mark.... I'm in the middle of building Tim Richmond's 1980 PC7 Indy car. The one and only year he ran at Indy. There's quite abit of fab work to do on the amt PC6 to make it a 7. I think about three other folks had done wips on this car and I didn't want to rehash old subject matter on the forums. Annnnd..... it don't fit in here either. LOL It's getting there though...
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Gary. . . Gary. . . Gary. Building something fits in ANYWHERE! ;D
LOL...OK...I'll go stand in the corner now...lol I think you just inspired me to do a wip on that Indy Car David....
Sorry Mark...not try'in to Hi-jack you wip my friend.....
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Some excellent fab work taking place there Mark. I'm looking forward to seeing this one finished.
Bob
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Thanks, Gary and Bob. Gary, the only way you could hijack this wip, is if you posted, in this thread, pictures of your own Late model 65 Chevelle. which I know you would never do.
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(https://s6.postimg.cc/3qxb4mo4x/65fredwipsstfiex1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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That interior and DASH look great Mark. Great job on fabb'in that fire extinguisher.
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Thanks, Gary. I always forget to allow room for the thick kit windshield, so I'm going to have to rework the cage, and move the front top tube back a little. I wanted the A pillar post cage tubes to fit flush with the A pillars, like the real car, but if you use the kit windshield that is impossible. No big deal to fix it just not the look I wanted.
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Mark, toss that thick windshield and use a piece of a clear report cover or clear from some packaging. That is what is in the last three I built. I found some clear and colored sheets at hobby lobby last time I went there. Its thin.
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Thanks for the info George. I already fixed this one, but will definitely go with the clear thin plastic sheets on my next build. Where abouts in Hobby Lobby are they located?
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You would ask me that! I think I found them where all the dry transfer stuff is. It is made by Midwest Products Co.
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You would ask me that! I think I found them where all the dry transfer stuff is. It is made by Midwest Products Co.
Ok, Thanks.
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Really enjoy watching this build come together. I also got some of those clear sheets in various colors. IIRC they were hanging on a peg in the models section, but I could be wrong - I was once before.
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Thanks, Rick. I'm hoping to install the interior tub to the body and then the body to the frame today.
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Decals are almost finished then final touchups and then future and it will be done. The enamel paint made this more challenging then it needed to be but the enamel allows me to give the decals a closer match for their backgrounds to the paint. That's the problem with using white ink jet paper.
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Thanks, Gary and Bob. Gary, the only way you could hijack this wip, is if you posted, in this thread, pictures of your own Late model 65 Chevelle. which I know you would never do.
I'd love to see the real one!!!
Rett
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I wondered what was going on with this little gem Mark! I am excited to see the finished product and I know in advance that it will be killer!
David, I'm done except for the future. Pretty happy with it. I love the way these cars look with the hogged out fender openings and the huge tires and wide 5 wheels. I will let it sit over night, and do the future tomorrow morning. With any luck I'll take the pictures tomorrow afternoon.
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More pictures in the "Cars with fenders" section.
(https://s6.postimg.cc/b79xzn3s1/65fred1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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MAN-OH-MAN....That really came out GREAT!!! That paint scheme really POPS. What did you shot the wheels with? They look great. As usual Mark...you just raised the building Bar! I love it...
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WOW!!!!
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MAN-OH-MAN....That really came out GREAT!!! That paint scheme really POPS. What did you shot the wheels with? They look great. As usual Mark...you just raised the building Bar! I love it...
Thanks, Gary. I opened up my molotow chrome pen, It unscrews very nicely, Put some in my air brush and shot the wheels. As long as the raw plastic is white you can do this. You don't have to prime either.