Applying decals

[David Bogard]

I did something unusual for me last night, I tore a decal and it was not repairable so I will be getting another entire set. That made me think about getting a decal application thread started to see what everyone's best practices are. I have mine and they work pretty well but I got a little too anxious last night and it cost me! So what are your decal application techniques?

[Brian Conn]

  At what part of the application process did you tear the decal?

 I'm still relatively new to decals compared to some, so its still a learning process.  Here's what I have done with success so far with applying decals.  I shoot a clear coat on the body before applying any decals.

1)  Use the proper tools to apply decals...makes a huge difference...
  1a. Decal scissors...I currently don't own a set, but I did abscond some scissors that look like something a surgeon would use...they do cut close to the actual decal and CLEAN , no jagged edges.

  1b. Decal tweezers...I got mine from Micro Mark...yes, they are designed different than any other tweezers.

  1c. Decal blotter...blots excess water from the decal....available from Micro Mark...a must when using setting solutions.

  1d. Setting solutions...I am currently using Microscale Micro Set and Micro Sol.  The model rail roaders swear by Walthers Solvaset, there are some other decal solvents out there as well.     

2)  Wash and rinse the body....I use Dawn dish washing soap to get rid of any oil residue that still maybe present on the body.  This is particularly important with a resin body...even if its been painted.  Some older styrene bodies will also have secreted oil residue due to their age.....i.e an 80's Monogram NASCAR body....an obvious sign of this is that the body presents itself to being brittle in an extreme case.   

3)  Allow the body to air dry....avoid the use of towel drying to help prevent unwanted particles from attaching themselves to the body.  If you can, place the body inside something to prevent dust and hair particles from settling on it...I use the toaster oven in the hobby room.....OFF and cool of course!

4) Using a detail brush,apply Micro Set to the area where the decal is to be placed.  This softens the decal and improves adhesion.

5)  Cut the decal from the sheet and place it in the water...I try and use as little water as possible...usually 30 to 45 seconds is all that is needed.

6)  Remove from the water and place the decal....I use the decal blotter to move the decal into place.

7)  Blot excess water away.

  Once all of the decals have been applied, I use a detail brush and brush Micro Sol on the decals.  This softens the decals to conform to irregular surfaces...give the decals a painted on appearance.   

       

[Lefturns75]

I do it pretty much the same way you do David.  I will use plenty of water on the model surface so I can "Float" the decal where I want it and move it around with a paint brush.  The corner of a paper towel on the edge of the decal will get the extra water when I get it where I want it and then blot.  When I get most of the extra water blotted away, I can press the decal with a paper towel to help get it into those pesky places.  Then I follow with some solvaset if I need it.  For those that have never used Solvaset your first experience may put you in panic mode.  On some decals but not all it will make it look like a prune and you first think major failure.  Just leave it alone and it will dry smooth and flat.  If you prod and poke the decal you will for sure destroy it, ask me how I know.  Your surface should be smooth.  If your paint job looks like 180 grit sandpaper you will never get a good decal job.  If you have to decal over flat paint, the area the decal goes should have some gloss coat applied first or your decal will "Silver" .  You can dulcoat after the decal is dry. 

Sometimes you have those compound surfaces that just look impossible.  When I looked at the area the number decal was to go on this NSX, I went full panic.  With plenty of water to float, a paint brush and some careful blotting It can be done.  Solvaset helped along with the decals being thin. 


The basic tools are these simple items.  Decal work is my least favorite but unless the decal is crappy, I get it done. 

[Dirtman]

 I thought I'd answered this one. Anyway....

I paint, then apply a light coat of clear, then decal, SolvaSet, then clear coat.  I soak the decal in a cup of luke warm water, pull the decal out, gently dab the excess water off the top and apply by holding one side with my wet finger and pull the backing with the tweezers. Then work out any wrinkles, or whatever with paper towel. Works pretty good for me so far.

Rett