Build Project #2

[Lefturns75]

Gonna step in a different direction this time and try a Ford.  This one will be from what I call the transition period in my area when the coupes and sedans started to die off and the late model cars started to take over.  Most of the drivers and builders built their new late model much like a modified and put the driver in the center.  That is what most builders were used to doing and that is where the driver wanted to be.  For this project I chose an original AMT 1963 Fairlane which was not perfect enough for a stock restoration and I selected the Lindberg 53 Victoria chassis as it looks pretty close to a 55 ford chassis. 


I sometimes think I make this harder than it should be since I do so much chassis prep.  I cut away all the molded in floor pan and braces and filled the frame rails with Tamiya putty and smoothed everything out.  This gives me a start just like the guys did back in the day. 



I found the upper A's on the Lindberg offering look pretty good so I cut them off and will work them over and reuse them.  I added some spring buckets to the chassis and will add some jack bolts.  I got the rear cage hoop made up and will continue with the rest of the chassis.  I will add more when I get things sorted out.  Follow along, I'm just as lost as you guys are!





The best part of this is I didn't have to shorten the chassis at all, it fit the body pretty well.  The Spring buckets will be shaved down some when I fit the upper A's to the chassis. 

[Brian Conn]

....Great start...you simply can not go wrong with that '49-'56 Ford ladder frame.  Which Evergreen part# are you using for the spring buckets?

[Lefturns75]

The spring buckets are Evergreen #227 7/32 Tube.    Not counting the #227, I find this assortment is good for fab work:
#176 .100 x .125  Strips
  223 3/32 Tube
  222 1/16 Rod
  175 .100x.100 strips
  166 .080 x .125 strips
  211 .040 rod
  212 .080 rod
  187 .125 x .156 strip
  148  .040 x .188 strip
  Assortment of sheet .010 to .020 thick

The things you can make with this is almost endless.  You will surprise yourself with the things you can use it for but this is not for everyone.  pick and choose your pieces as everyone's eye is a little different by what looks right to them.  I use this stuff when that kit part just don't look right or a combination of it to make something I don't have.  Hope this will help you some. 

[MarkJ]

Excellent start, George. I'm watching with much interest.

[Lefturns75]

Thanks Supertex, glad it grabbed your interest.  For the next few days I will be on hold at this point.  I just used my last stick of evergreen rod and had to place another order.  This will give me some time to work out the center steering, suspension and figure out what engine I am gonna use.  Most of these I saw were 289-302 powered but once in a while someone would come up with a 390.  I have been fooling with a 289 out of a Monogram 66 Shelby kit and even though it is 1/24 it looks right with everything else but we'll see.  The 390 Out of the AMT Fairlane GT/GTA kit looks pretty good.  Until next time, more filing, sanding, grinding and parts searching. 


I know it looks strange but all those center steer jobs I looked at back then did too.  At least it fits the body so I can continue.



Should any of you guys need parts for an AMT 63 Fairlane Gloo-Bomb resto, I have most of the kit parts in pretty good shape including the box.  I'll make ya a good trade. 

[Bob P.]

Looking good so far, I'll keep an eye on this build.

Bob

[Lefturns75]

Got my new supply of tube and rod and got a little more done on the chassis.  If any of you have not checked out David Bogard's thread on his '65 Fairlane, I suggest you do.  He has an excellent tutorial on improving and modifying a kit based build and has many useful tips.  I don't call this thread a tutorial as it is more of an inside look at how I do a car "From the ground up" if you will, like my 68 Camaro thread.  I know this type of build is not for everybody and may not even be interesting to some.  I could just post pics of the finished build and be done but my goal is to encourage others to give it a try and maybe combine methods of both threads to build your stocker.  My way is not the only way and not the best way but as good a way as any.   



I now have most of the roll cage finished along with some of the suspension parts.  The upper A arms are kit items I cut off the chassis and filed and sanded to shape.  Once I have the front suspension assembled and the chosen ride height established, I can attach the rear suspension to get my final chassis height.  I figured out the mechanical attachments for the center steering but when the interior tin is installed, you won't be able to see it.  I will leave that out and the finished product will just give the illusion that it is there.  Less work for me.   When all the brackets and suspension is attached, the chassis will get a final filing and sanding of all joints and paint.  I think I have settled on the 390 out of the AMT 66 Fairlane GT/GTA kit unless I find some fit problem I can't fix.  If any of you guys could use that kit less engine, I have one to trade for parts.  If you have questions about anything,  please ask. 

[TarheelRick]

This one is just getting better with every post.  You are providing some great build ideas.

[Dirtman]

Glad you are doing it this way! I always learn a thing or two, or see something that I've neglected to incorporate into my builds. This is really coming along nicely.

Rett

[Lefturns75]

I ran into a glitch with this build but that is nothing new.  The tires I picked are the Goodyear Dirt tires that are in the MPC Super Stocker kits and some others.  Those looked most like the tires being used during the time this car would have raced but I didn't do enough checking for fit.  I had moved the rear springs to the outboard of the frame rails like I had seen done many times but this puts about 3/4 of the tire sticking out of the body.  Now I never saw any of these cars with that much tire showing and it just looked funny.  I had all the suspension brackets made and located in the first pic but it wasn't gonna work.


So what to do?  I could re-mount all the brackets in-board or keep them as they are and just narrow the rear frame rails.  So, after some really choice words out comes the razor saw and some re-work.  I dug through some of my old photos and programs and found lots of these frames were narrowed with the springs mounted outboard and some were Z'd with the springs left in the stock location.  This will set me back a few days but I will be able to keep most of the tire inside the body without almost all of it sticking out.  This was bad engineering on my part but heck, this is the first Phord I have done since I can remember. 





Once I solve this mess, I will have to deal with the engine.  That is another problem since Phord chose to put the oil pan sump in the wrong place.  Back to the bench and I hope I dont have to change something else. 

[Brian Conn]

I ran into a glitch with this build but that is nothing new.....   I will have to deal with the engine.  That is another problem since Phord chose to put the oil pan sump in the wrong place.  Back to the bench and I hope I dont have to change something else.

  The oil pan is a simple fix....we would run a Ford truck pan...the sump is in the rear.  Even with a rear steer set up.  Forget which pan/ steering linkage set up , but had to dimple the pan in a couple of places....no biggie.     

[BobD]

Great looking work....love the step-by-step "tutorial/process"!