Author Topic: 38/39 ford  (Read 26401 times)

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slim

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Re: 38/39 ford
« Reply #45 on: October 01, 2017, 05:34:00 PM »
Killer looking race car happening here!

MarkJ

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Re: 38/39 ford
« Reply #46 on: October 02, 2017, 03:17:49 PM »
Killer looking race car happening here!

Thanks, Tom. Your builds always give me inspiration.

MarkJ

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Re: 38/39 ford
« Reply #47 on: October 02, 2017, 03:22:53 PM »
Got the interior finished.






MarkJ

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Re: 38/39 ford
« Reply #48 on: October 02, 2017, 03:30:09 PM »
The wheels that come in the kit wont work for this car and luckily I had some wide 5 wheels left over from years back. I turned the whitewalls which are plastic to the inside and there was no place to mount the wheel to the axles if you don't use the kit wheels. I cut off short pieces of 7/32 inch tube and glued them on the back of the wide 5's, and cut off the tips of the axles. Now I will be able to install the wheel/tires to the model.






MarkJ

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Re: 38/39 ford
« Reply #49 on: October 02, 2017, 03:37:19 PM »
I got the body cleared so I just need to wet sand it with 6000,8000, and 12000 paper to get it ready for the future (pledge floor care) after I install the decals. I also installed the engine to the frame. I just need to add the water hoses.












MarkJ

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Re: 38/39 ford
« Reply #50 on: October 03, 2017, 07:05:32 AM »
Please. . . everyone. . . stand back and give the man some room! Where are my "CRAFTSMAN AT WORK" barricade signs? Mark, I may have to try this Model Master Acrylic paint in the future (for health reasons?). What do you thin it with?

Thanks, David. I use testors universal acrylic thinner #50496. it comes in a 4 oz bottle and hobby lobby sells it for $7.49 .  Hobby lobby also sells small mixing cups with plastic covers that come 12 to a bag for $2.99 . They are .4 oz cups. I fill the cup half full of paint and thin it 50 %  which you can easily eyeball because the cups are clear. I then use a battery powered mixer to mix the paint. I put it in my paashe vl airbrush and have figured out a good air pressure to paint amount setting on the airbrush using trial and error on a piece of primed plastic till I got the finish I wanted with out allowing the paint to run or orange peel. another good thing about the acryl is you can add white or black to either lighten or darken the color of the paint that's in the bottle. And its much less toxic than other paints.

Gary Davis

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Re: 38/39 ford
« Reply #51 on: October 03, 2017, 11:52:58 AM »
Please. . . everyone. . . stand back and give the man some room! Where are my "CRAFTSMAN AT WORK" barricade signs? Mark, I may have to try this Model Master Acrylic paint in the future (for health reasons?). What do you thin it with?
Thanks for the GREAT info Mark.

Thanks, David. I use testors universal acrylic thinner #50496. it comes in a 4 oz bottle and hobby lobby sells it for $7.49 .  Hobby lobby also sells small mixing cups with plastic covers that come 12 to a bag for $2.99 . They are .4 oz cups. I fill the cup half full of paint and thin it 50 %  which you can easily eyeball because the cups are clear. I then use a battery powered mixer to mix the paint. I put it in my paashe vl airbrush and have figured out a good air pressure to paint amount setting on the airbrush using trial and error on a piece of primed plastic till I got the finish I wanted with out allowing the paint to run or orange peel. another good thing about the acryl is you can add white or black to either lighten or darken the color of the paint that's in the bottle. And its much less toxic than other paints.
"Man...I love the smell of Methonal and Dirt in the morning. Then....Methonal and Asphalt in the afternoon is GOLDEN also."

Dr. Kerry

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Re: 38/39 ford
« Reply #52 on: October 03, 2017, 12:23:47 PM »
Lookin reall good!!!!!!
"Keep It In Scale"
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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_FIdex0e1WNmv1lpQ-ZnQ

MarkJ

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Re: 38/39 ford
« Reply #53 on: October 03, 2017, 03:38:40 PM »
Lookin reall good!!!!!!

Thanks, Doc. I really appreciate the reply

MarkJ

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Re: 38/39 ford
« Reply #54 on: October 03, 2017, 03:48:59 PM »
I got the body wet sanded with 8000 and then 12000 paper. Now I can go ahead and assemble the model. Then I will need to bare metal foil some moldings, decal it and then future it. I went ahead and took pictures of the acryl thinner and the mixing pots I mentioned before. I also made a license plate for the model. The car doesn't have any lights so I have no idea why they raced it with a license plate.













MarkJ

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Re: 38/39 ford
« Reply #55 on: October 04, 2017, 06:14:41 AM »
Wowzers!!  8) And you're not even done yet!

Thanks, David. Hopefully not much longer.

MarkJ

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Re: 38/39 ford
« Reply #56 on: October 05, 2017, 06:48:56 AM »
It's done except for the decals, the tiny parts that I usually knock off while decaling, and the future. Also I do a last inspection to find any touching up I might need to do. No more pictures till its completely finished. Will probably post the final pictures in a different thread. Which section would be the best to post them in?

Dr. Kerry

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Re: 38/39 ford
« Reply #57 on: October 05, 2017, 09:15:47 AM »
OOoohhh, the wait is killing me!!!!!! ARGH!!!!!! LOL  ;D
"Keep It In Scale"
       Dr. Kerry
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_FIdex0e1WNmv1lpQ-ZnQ

Bob P.

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Re: 38/39 ford
« Reply #58 on: October 05, 2017, 04:28:22 PM »
Mark,

That build is way to nice for a race car.

You'll  need to putt around the back of the field so you don't get a scratch on the car.

That is a beautiful build and I can't wait to see it finished.

Bob
« Last Edit: October 05, 2017, 04:38:08 PM by Bob P. »

MarkJ

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Re: 38/39 ford
« Reply #59 on: October 06, 2017, 06:20:40 AM »
Thanks, Doc and Bob. I wish I didn't have to put the decals on it because its pain staking work.